The name of the rose

Busardi’s debut show at the London Fashion Week earlier this year attracted some of the world’s most influential editors and firmly put the house’s 65-year old heritage on the London fashion map alongside Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, Erdem and Christopher Kane.

Now the pret-a-couture label has landed in Bangkok with a recent showcase of its Autumn/Winter 2014 “Thorns” collection at The Peninsula Plaza.

This season the brand, which is known for producing high-end evening gowns, rises to the occasion, bringing a darker, more sinister mood to the romantic aesthetic for which is it renowned. The ethereal femininity that defines the fashion house has been sharpened with exquisite subversiveness, offering a seditious take on demi-couture dressing. The collection pays respect to the house’s 65-year old heritage, formerly known as “Yoswadee” while completely reinventing it for the new generation.

 “My girls are no longer prim and proper. While holding onto the romantic essence of the brand, I decided to give this collection a subversive edge. For with the rose comes the thorn,” says the label’s co-founder and designer Busardi Muntarbhorn.

A formally trained landscape architect, the designer channels her fascination with gardens and flowers into a sartorial narrative based around a recurring darkened rose motif. The once demure Busardi woman of seasons past is tempted into a wicked world. The label’s signature use of floral lace, three-dimensional rose and petal applique and embroidery run throughout the collection, serving as a stark reminder of the whimsical beauty that has been integral to the brand’s success thus far.

However, for autumn-winter 2014, the plot thickens. With their hair tucked behind leather thorn chokers made exclusively for Busardi, the vampy models hint at the darker desires of a woman harbouring a strong, new-found audacity. Provocative slits, shorter cuts, sheer panelling and bursts of weighty adornment offset a profusion of sweeping skirts, high necks and delicate detailing. An aqua waterfall dress offers a rare source of purity, highlighting the start of life and the replenishment of plants and gardens; while the use of rose-printed Silk Mikado on a jacket and dress allows the rose motif to blossom beyond the applique and spill onto the fabric.

Classic dresses and separates take the collection back into traditional Busardi territory, with sumptuously rich creations bedecked with layers of lace and oodles of tulle playing a dominant role. A lavish abundance of embroidery and a rich colour palette make the collection a treasure trove for those seeking ensembles for private parties, opening nights and celebrity events. The introduction of sharply tailored jackets, peplum shapes and a micro-cape ensure that the Busardi woman remains current both on and off the red carpet; while the uncorseted style of dress offers the wearer the freedom of movement needed to reflect her modern lifestyle.

The colours palette features shades of black, royal purple, navy, electric blue, plum, crimson, royal blue, rose pink, sky blue, aqua, magenta, while fabrics include lace, organza, crepe satin, taffeta, printed Silk Mikado, Thai silk, chiffon, tulle, brocade duchess satin.

 

 

It was the ‘Thorns’ collection that caught the eyes of film director, Craig Bilham and producer, Mark Londsdale, who approached Busardi with the idea to turn the sartorial narrative underlining the collection into a fashion film. “Dissociative” has quickly garnered a cult following amongst fashion film critics and the end result puts Busardi firmly beside some of fashion’s most celebrated brands.

“Seeing the Busardi AW14 collection come to life in ‘Dissociative’ was beautiful. The haunting backdrop, dark feathers, horns and candle lighting highlighted our darker and sinister collection for autumn where our once demure girl was tempted into a wicked world in a sartorial narrative based around evil roses and thorns. The film portrays different personalities of one girl – her soul turning darker towards the end of the film which coincides with the darker desires of our woman this season. It was such a pleasure to work with Craig, Mark and the entire Leap team on this film,” says fellow co-founder Tuck Muntarbhorn.

 

The Thorns collection is available at the Busardi boutique, Peninsula Plaza.