The jewel in the gourmet crown

THAI GOURMETS no longer have to fly to Singapore, Tokyo or even Paris to savour the gastronomic offerings of leading French chef and restaurateur Joel Robuchon, thanks to the long-awaited opening last week of Bangkok;’s very own L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon at the upmarket Maha Nakhon Cube.

Dubbed the “chef of the century”, the 69-year-old chef from Poitiers is the most-awarded restaurateur in the world with his establishments holding a staggering 25 Michelin stars, inclusive of four 3-star restaurants in Las Vegas, Macau, Tokyo and Hong Kong. 

Visits to Japan and the discovery of tapas bars in Spain more than a decade ago gave Robuchon the inspiration to offer a new dining and cooking experience by bringing his cuisine in front of the guests, and the concept of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon was born. The first L’Atelier opened in Paris in 2003 and has since been followed by branches in Las Vegas, London, Hong Kong, Taipei, Tokyo and most recently Singapore. 

Perched on the fifth floor of the newly built Cube next to what will be Bangkok’s tallest building when it is completed next year, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon looks and feels sleek thanks to a decor in fiery red and black. Patrons can choose to sit at the long counter and observe the chefs at work in the open kitchen under the supervision of Olivier Limousin, or opt for a more private table in the dining zone.

Whet the appetite with Chilled Kale Veloute, a veggie combination with spicy tomato jelly at the bottom. The velvety and creamy sauce is delightfully savoury and goes well with the slightly spicy gazpacho. A more substantial appetiser is Salmon Tartare with Imperial Caviar, which is not heavy but surprisingly well rounded, perfectly seasoned and addictive. Truffle fans should try the glazed quail egg served with rice and topped with chunks of shaved white truffle. 

A main course that is certain to become a best-seller is Lobster with Malabar Sauce. It’s a dish that needs to be tasted as a whole rather than in its parts as the coconut foam topping lightens the slightly salty Indian Malabar sauce and rich lobster, making it more enjoyable.

The chef’s signature dish, free-range quail with foie gras and potato puree, is a must for the meat lover. The quail is cooked sous-vide then pan fried until the skin is golden and crispy and stuffed with foie gras in just the right quantity so that it oozes out when you cut the quail but doesn’t mask the flavour of the meat. It’s served with a creamy potato puree that makes you want to shout for more and accompanied by a small side salad of fresh dill and herbs tossed in balsamic. 

Take a break before dessert and prep the palate with Le Parfum des Iles, a light sabayon with caramelised sweet and sour pineapple confit, fragrant rum granita and tangy lemon sorbet. Follow up with a sinfully delicious yet healthy Mango and Grape Jelly that’s topped with sweet and slightly sour coconut yoghurt. 

Seven-course degustation menus are priced at Bt7,500 and the five-course at Bt5,000. A full a la carte menu is also offered with entrees starting at Bt900 and small tasting portions from Bt680. 

 

BON APPETIT!

 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is located on level 5 of Maha Nakhon Cube, close to Chong Nonsi BTS. 

 It’s open daily from 11.30 to 2.30 and from 6.30 to 11.30.

Book a table at (02) 001 0698.

Find out more at www.Robuchon-Bangkok.com.