The right foot forward

ONE OF THE most famous shoe designers of the post-war years, Roger Vivier brought allure to the feet of royalty and celebrities, creating bespoke footwear for clients as diverse as Ava Gardner and Queen Elizabeth II, who commissioned him to design the shoes she would wear at her coronation in 1953.
His Pilgrim pumps with a silver buckle, worn by French actress Catherine Deneuve in “Belle du Jour” became his signature and have been copied by hundreds of pretenders over the last 50 years. His heels, in particularly the Virgule (Comma) and Stiletto, are credited with showing women the path to liberation and attraction.
Vivier himself died in 1998 but his name lives on through the feet of others, among them Hollywood superstars Cate Blanchett, Jennifer Lopez, Nicole Kidman, Uma Thurman, Jennifer Aniston, Penelope Cruz, Scarlett Johansson and many more besides.
Today the brand has finally arrived in Bangkok with the recent opening of a boutique at the newly renovated Emporium Shopping Complex. The store, which is spread over 200 square metres of prime retail space, is celebrating its Thai conquest by showcasing the extravagant and eclectic universe of Roger Vivier alongside the season’s new collections and limited editions.
Bruno Frisoni, who has been creative director since 2004, was in town for the opening along with the brand’s ambassador, Ines de la Fressange, former model and designer. He took time out of his busy schedule to sit down with XP to talk about the essence of the brand and his visions for bringing Roger Vivier to the modern generation.

What challenges as an Italian designer do you face in maintaining this French heritage brand?

Roger was an incredible designer and his legacy is very rich. He generated styles that are still relevant today. His iconic buckle shoe has achieved legendary status since making their debut first on the Yves St Laurent catwalk then on Catherine Deneuve’s feet. Thus it logical to stick with basic designs and rework them. My first challenge a decade ago was to make people understand what RV means as a brand as it had faded from the public eye before Roger’s death. So I started by bringing in new styles, reworking the silhouette, the new wedge, so that the shoes would again click with customers.

What is the unique quality of French taste?
Being French is always difficult to identify. I think blending the old with the new is a cool approach to fashion. We never destroy the old. We live with the past and we update with new stuff. This is also the way we dress and the way we approach fashion. We always go back to what it was in order to make it new. When you buy a piece of new clothing, it takes time to feel at home in it. But if you mix it with some older pieces, it is immediately part of you. That’s the way I try to work, building on what I’ve done before and adding something new. I think that is the essence of Parisian style.

What do you love about shoe design?
It might sound strange but I like the fact that it is not an easy task. I like the challenge of working in millimetres and achieving the right balance. Shoe design is really about making the wearer beautiful and it’s not always easy to do.

How would you describe the revolution in shoe design?
It’s as much a revolution in materials as in the way people approach life. When RV made its debut, people didn’t travel much. Today everybody, no matter where they live in the world, can travel easily and that has changed lifestyles. Everything is so much faster than before. We use mobile technology to exchange information at the drop of a hat and this new way of communicating has changed style. Before you dressed for the day and changed into appropriate wear for the evening. Today daywear and eveningwear is all mixed up. People want to wear high heels all day long whereas before it was only for a couple of hours. All of this changes the way we approach design.

Can you tell us about the new spring and summer collection?
The new collection puts shade in step with light. It plays with the idea of a very hot summer and how people instinctively look for a fresh atmosphere and shadow. The shoes and sandals are sexy but also cool.

Would you like to design ready-to-wear?
It’s not even on the map.

Where do you find inspiration?
I believe in the individual, the way people are, the way people dress and the way people act. For me photography and art are very important. Inspiration comes from curiosity. Things that shock you whether in a good or bad way but nonetheless give you information are also inspiring. Inspiration is many things, it’s never one thing. I believe it is also being very open. You look at people. You may think you have absolutely no ideas but it is at that moment that you are most open to them. Today it could be a book, tomorrow it could be photography. It generally starts with one spark and gradually grows into a story. You add elements.

RV is endorsed by many famous personalities. How do keep that success?
You don’t keep success. I think people like us because there is sincerity in what we do. I try to give a solution to people that will make them look beautiful when standing. But it’s success that brings success.