Say cheers to cheese

DEVOTEES OF CHEESE are massing at the Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant, where French cheese master Gerard Poulard is back for a third visit doling out fine farm cheeses through next Sunday, May 24. Poulard is presenting his 2015 Fromages de France collection – 150 varieties from the best of France’s boutique producers.
“France’s official cheese ambassador to the world” since 1999, Poulard has spread the word in more than 20 countries, often in collaboration with his son Olivier. He continues to win prestigious awards for his knowledge and his ambassadorial efforts, notably earning the Order of Agricultural Merit, Le Cordon Bleu, and the Prix Culinaire Prosper Montagne.
Part of each year for more than two decades, the cheese master has travelled throughout the French countryside uncovering the history and culture of different locales. His knowledge of the farms is unparalleled. He even knows the name of particular goats and cows that provided the milk for specific cheeses!
“Actually what’s more important than the milk is the grass the animals eat,” Poulard explains. “Each territory has a different climate, soil and altitude, and these factors all contribute to the quality of the grass and other plants. That’s why milk from sheep, cows and goats differs from one place to another and consequently makes the cheeses different, too.
“It’s like grapes and wine. And, also like wine, there is no ‘good’ or ‘bad’ cheese – there are only the cheeses you like and the ones you don’t like. There are thousands of varieties of cheese, and the more pungent ones often don’t taste anything like they smell. So please give them a try – you might find your new favourite!”
Quite a few French cheeses can be served on their own, alongside bread, cold cuts, fruit, wine or even tea to complement them. Among these are Fourme Laqueuille Memee Aoc, Rigotte de Condrieux and Bouyguette du Segala Romarin, as well as a divine selection of goat cheese.
“A general rule in pairing cheese with wine is that white goes with goat cheese and red goes with cow cheese,” says the master. “Cheese can be had with beer, too, but there you have more limited options. One good option is Le Regal du Brasseur, and there are several others from the north of France.
“Tea also goes well with cheese. Perhaps the next time you have afternoon tea you could serve something like Le Basilou, or any cheese that goes with the most prominent notes in the tea.”
Many of the cheeses Poulard is touting in Bangkok are on sale to take home. “To store cheese in the fridge at home, make sure the temperature is between eight and ten degrees and no colder than that,” he says. “‘Colder the better’ is not the case with cheese.
“If you have some left over, put it in a glass container and cover it with plastic wrap. For creamy, runny cheese like brie, don’t leave it out too long, especially in a hot and humid climate like you have here. Take out only the portion you’re going to eat and quickly wrap the rest in plastic and put it in the fridge. Another important detail is that you should turn the cheese over every day to even out the moisture – otherwise the bottom gets soggy and the top dries out.”
A 100-gram wedge of cheese sells for Bt180 and a platter of eight varieties can cost up to Bt1,200.

>> Gerard Poulard is stationed at the Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant through May 24.
>> The bar is on Level 37 at the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G on Silom Road and open from 6pm to 1am.
>> Reservations are recommended at (02) 238 1991 or (090) 237 7990, or via www.Facebook.com/ScarlettWineBarBangkok.