In Taiwan, reaching out to the past

In terms of tourist attractions in Lukang, Taiwan, people might know about a few historic spots such as the Longshan Temple and the dining delicacies on offer. What’s been largely lost to memory is that this town in northwest Changhua County was, in the 17th century, the second largest in Taiwan.

Lukang has since undergone dramatic changes through rapid development and technological advances, with many old buildings replaced and factories and stores cropping up everywhere. Concern has arisen that its traditional culture is gradually seeping away while the environment is being harmed.

So a group of Lukang young people has decided to try and preserve the town’s old face by raising awareness through initiatives like concerts and guided tours, most offered for free. They’re using simple methods to connect Taiwanese people based on love of the country.

Among the campaigners are two brothers – Chang Ching-yeh, chief executive of an outfit called The Kids from Lukang Co, and Annon Chang, chairman of the Lukang Renaissance Association. The two organisations were founded in 2012.

Chang Ching-yeh, the elder at 31, is a musician who dreams of making Lukang a capital of culture. “To pursue what you really like is the most exhilarating thing,” he says. “We don’t need to do everything just for money.” 

In 2009 he joined a dance troupe touring Italy, a trip that became the turning point of his life. Sardinian performers he met told him they never missed important festivals on their home island even though they lived and worked on the mainland.

Inspired by their love of their roots, Chang began to wonder why the bond between Taiwanese people and their places of origin has weakened. He regards culture as an accumulation of daily experiences and the environment in which you’re raised, a combination that cannot be ignored.

While many people conclude that they have no future if they stay in their hometowns, Chang recognises the potential in Lukang and decided to return home and make changes.

With support from the government, he’s slowly begun to fulfil his dream of preserving Lukang traditions and create a good environment for culture. “It will be a pity if these values are lost to make way for business and tourism. It doesn’t mean Lukang can’t be developed, but it has to be done in a way that doesn’t damage the original,” he says.

Through more than 40 activities, including concerts, art festivals and the screening of documentary films, Chang and his team are bringing the arts to the people. “We’re not doing it for praise but for what we believe is right. We have a strong sense of local identity and hope to encourage other people to care more about public affairs.

“Cultivating culture is like planting a tree – it needs enough time to develop firm roots. I will keep it up, using art to touch more and more people.”

Following in his brother’s footsteps, Annon, a 28-year-old office worker, wants to bring about a Lukang renaissance.

He devotes himself to cultural preservation by inviting local people to clean up the environment together and holding civic forums and exhibitions every month. “We don’t need to give up everything to realise our dreams,” he says. “We only need to make good use of our free time.”

He believes that only when people put in personal effort can they build a better environment. “People should stop criticising and instead start making their lives better.” The more tourists who visit Lukang and the more business opportunities arise, but, at the same time, the residents lament that the town is no longer the same as it used to be. Traditions are fading while new construction caters to the tourists and the welfare of local people is neglected.

“We shouldn’t let tourism take away our own cultural spirit,” Annon says. “I believe it’s our traditions and historical sites that attract visitors, so what we need to do is protect those antiquities instead of modernising.”

Annon and his partners regard take their social responsibility so seriously that they’re willing to clean out the sewers even in summer when the odour is foulest.

Other places are facing the same impact from modernisation. The brothers say that, no matter how quickly the changes come about, Taiwanese people should remember their roots, “because they made us who we are today”, as Annon puts it.

The Chang brothers are thankful to those who have helped them and devoted themselves to Lukang, grateful for the chance to preserve heritage for the generations to come. Their dream is on its way to success, despite difficulties, and their belief and perseverance have inspired others who might follow their example and continue to promote local culture.