Riding around the loop

WHEN TAIWANESE director Huai-en Chen decided to tell the story of hearing-impaired student Ming-Hsang and his journey around the island on two wheels in his 2006 film, “Lian Xi Qu” (“Island Etude”), he had little idea that he would be throwing out a challenge to cyclists the world over to make that very same 925-kilometre trip.

Lai Zun Wei, 32, a member of the Taiwan Bike Association, is one such cyclist.

 “Riding around the island really depends on how many days the cyclist wants to take. It can be three, seven or 10. For me, the most impressive and challenging route is the 86 km between Hualien near the spectacular Taroko Gorge, to Hehuanshan. My dream is actually to ride straight through the mountains, from the northernmost point to the southernmost.”

Lai says that he – and probably many more biking enthusiasts – have been further inspired by the recent Hong Kong sports drama, “Por Fung” (“To the Fore”). A major box office hit, it stars Taiwanese actor Eddie Peng, Chinese actor Shawn Dou, and South Korean actor-singer Choi Siwon as would-international racers, and was mainly shot in Taiwan, including the seaside town of Fulong, a target destination in my personal travel plans.

Located in Gongliao district on the island’s northeastern coast, Fulong is easy to reach by train from Taipei and with its golden sand beaches, is a popular summer hangout with the locals.

The moment I step off the train and see the Taiwan Cycling logo on the platform, I know I’ve come to the right place. That feeling is confirmed as I come to the station exit and am greeted by long queues at both the bike rental concessions and the stand selling bian dang, the famed local dish of egg, rice, vegetables, seaweed, tofu and pork.

As I try and figure out how to use the lockers at the station, the owner of one of the concessions approaches me and offers to look after my backpack if I rent one of her bikes. I agree and hand over my 100 TWD (Bt110). 

Fulong isn’t just only popular for its stunning bike route but also with the hiking crowd. By 11am I am pedalling along the road that runs parallel with the railway and soon reach the start of the northeast coast bike trail, a rest area at the entrance to the Old Coaling Tunnel, which opened in 1924 and was for many years the nation’s longest tunnel.

Sparing no more than a quick glance at the sculptures of metallic robots scattered around the rest area, I cycle through the 2.2-kilometre-long old rail tunnel and emerge into the sunlight at another rest area. I leave my bike in the parking lot and walk off to join several other bikers eating sausages, drinking water and taking in the wonderful views of the northeast coast, an important area for floating fish farms.

The 20km trail, which includes a loop around Taiwan’s most eastern cape, can be ridden in any direction. It is well marked and runs alongside the main road. I pedal up the hill and follow the undulating trail around the cape.

The views of the sea, the rocks and the Lailai marine terrace are stunning and after just a few kilometres I stop at the sightseeing area next to the Sandiaojiao Cape Lighthouse. Here, I meet a group of serious cyclists who are following in Ming-Hsang’s footsteps and riding around the island. “We’ve been on the road for four days and this is our final destination,” one of them tells me.

Leaving the highway, I cycle down to the fishing village at the end of the bay, pass several old stone houses and some surfers and finish my journey back in Fulong near the stunning Dongxin Temple.

 

FLY AND BIKE

 

- Passengers on NokScoot’s flights from Bangkok to Taipei can take their bikes along for free through the end of January. For details, call (02) 021 0000 or visit www.NokScoot.com.