A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 09, 2023
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The Northern province of Nan is known for its beautiful mountainous landscape, local temples, one of which bears the famed mural of the whispering couple, and traditional rock salt production.

But those attractions aside, the province has plenty of cultural highlights just waiting to be discovered.

Spread over 11,472 square kilometres, Nan is bordered by Uttaradit, Phrae and Phayao and to its north and east by Sainyabuli province in Laos, a geological landscape that has given birth to a blend of art and culture mirrored in temples across the province.

The best time to visit Nan is the winter, which runs from October to January and is perfect for both locals and expats wanting to escape heat and humidity for dry cool air.

Here are just some of our favourite lesser-known landmarks.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Tham Chetawan

This temple in Na Noi district was formerly called Wat Kru Ba Noi after a monk who spent three years, three months and three days between 2014 and 2017 practising dhamma in a nearby cave. Kru Ba Noi is currently practising dhamma in Myanmar.

The temple is a must-visit for anyone interested in the spiritual side of life as it boasts a variety of sacred places and objects mostly influenced by Myanmar beliefs.

The cave in which Kru Ba Noi spent his time consists of areas for sleeping, walking and meditating. It is however best avoided by those who are afraid of heights or suffer from vertigo as the routes to the cave are both sheer and slippery.

Among the sacred objects are a Buddha image made of white jade, the Phra That In Kwaen pagoda, which is a duplicate of that in Myanmar, and Thep Than Jai, a Burmese deity said to bring immediate prosperity to devotees.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Ban Nong Ha Sufficiency Economy Learning Centre

Also located in Na Noi district, the centre offers a variety of export-quality apparel, such as clothes, bags and skirts.

Products rely on local wisdom and are made from eco-friendly materials found in the community. A variety of apparel is now available at reasonable prices at stores nationwide.

Production of a single item can take a week—three days for dyeing and another three days for weaving.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Nakorn Nan Identity Hall

This learning site in Mueang district allows visitors to study the province's history, art and culture.

The province's history is described since it became part of the Lanna Kingdom in the Sukhothai era, its colonization by Burma, and becoming part of Thailand in the Rattanakosin era.

Infographics, videos, sculptures and artefacts are on show at the learning site and include evidence of civilisation in the 18th century, the city model in the Sukhothai era, and traditional clothing.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Ming Muang

If you don't know which temple inspired Thailand's famous National Artist Chalermchai Kositpipat to build his own Wat Rong Khun in Chiang Rai, this temple in Mueang district has the answer.

The temple enshrines a golden city pillar, to which visitors are advised to pay respect by hanging cloth on the pillar. The colours of the cloth should be picked based on the visitors' day of birth for prosperity.

Visitors are also advised to walk around the model of the white elephant with a Buddha figure on its back for prosperity in health, mind and wealth.

Many spectacular sacred figures can also be found at the temple, such as Guanyin, a Bodhisattva associated with compassion, and Thao Wessuwan, a leader of all ghosts and demons according to Buddhist belief.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Sri Panton

This temple in Mueang district was constructed by Phaya Panton, one of the province's 64 rulers.

It was formerly known as Wat Saree Panton in honour of the towering Bodhi trees on the temple's north and south sides. The trees were later cut down so the road could be paved.

A long boat named "Phaya Khu" built from Takhian wood is preserved at the temple. The boat can support 80 oarsmen.

Apart from the principal gold Buddha image, visitors can pay respect to the Katyayana image which is believed to bring wealth to worshippers.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Suan Tan

The temple in Mueang district was named after the former royal sugar plantation on which it stands.

The principal Buddha image, Phra Chao Thong Thip, was presented to Nan locals by Tilokaraj, the King of Lanna, in appreciation for supplying the kingdom with rock salt.

A holy well in front of the temple was among 108 water sources used during the coronation of His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn in 2019.

The temple's small monastery also features a hidden figure of Maitreya regarded as the future Buddha of this world.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Hong Chao Fong Kham (The Noble House)

This community museum in Mueang Nan district was once a residence of the province's nobles. Well-maintained and restored to its original design, it houses a wealth of artefacts including a wooden bed, betel nut set, Buddha figures, traditional clothes, old banknotes and coins.

Admission for Thais and foreigners is 30 baht and traditional Lanna performances are staged every weekend.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Phrathat Chae Haeng

People who were born in the year of the rabbit should visit this temple in Phu Phiang district and walk around the pagoda to the right three times to be blessed with health, wealth and prosperity.

This temple also features a small Maha Ut monastery open only to men to pay respect to the Buddha figures inside.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Phumin

The “whisper of love” legend originates from this temple in Mueang district.

The temple was formerly known as Wat Prohmin after Prince Chetabutr Prohmin, the 40th ruler, who ordered its construction in 1596.

The wall painting of the Burmese "Poo man Ya man" couple whispering their love can be seen in the monastery, which also features a portrait of "Si Wai", a Nan woman dubbed "Thailand's Mona Lisa".

The temple's principal Buddha statues Phra Buddha Maha Brahma Udom Sakyamuni facing four directions are the only examples of their kind in Thailand. Devotees are advised to make a wish in front of the statue that smiles at them.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Phra That Chang Kham

This temple in Mueang district also boasts a famous pagoda called Phra That Chang Kham.

The Sukhothai-style pagoda features elephant statues all along its base, which means they are sustaining the Buddhist religion.

The pagoda also represents the victory against Myanmar. In the past, Thai and Myanmar people, both devoutly Buddhist, competed in building pagodas rather than waging war.

Another highlight is the temple's principal Buddha figure Phra Chao Luang. A close look at the Sukhothai-style figure from the monastery gate reveals a shining gemstone.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Nan National Museum

Many exquisite artefacts representing the province's identity are showcased at the museum in Mueang district, the former residence of the province’s last ruler Chao Maha Phrom Suratada.

This museum's highlight is a black ivory statue weighing 18 kilograms, which denotes the nobility of the province’s ruler. It is believed that the ivory became black due to chromosomic disorders.

Other artefacts at the museum include the province's law book, Buddha figures, Buddhist scripture cases, Garuda emblems, and sculptures of mythical beasts.

Admission is 20 baht for Thais, 100 baht for foreigners, and free for monks, students and the elderly.

A treasure trove of cultural delights awaits visitors to Nan

Wat Phra That Khao Noi

This temple is another must-visit. Perched at the top of Doi Khao Noi in Mueang district, it boasts a standing Buddha image with a panoramic view of the province.

Phra Phuttha Maha Udom Mongkhon Nanthaburi Si Nan, as the image is known, was built to mark the auspicious occasion of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great's sixth cycle birthday anniversary on December 5, 1999.

Another highlight is Phra That Khao Noi pagoda which is a mixture of Burmese and Lanna art.

Unlike Wat Tham Chetawan, people can visit the temple by car or simply gauge the height by walking up the Naga staircase.