Marriages made in hop heaven

While some find foods just beg to be paired with wine, others find their soul mates in crafted beers, as evidenced by the Millennium Hotel Bangkok’s latest culinary marvel, “A Taste of Belgium”, where the country’s signature dishes are beautifully matched with its brews.

Belgian chef Koen Lefever, a celebrity in his own right and the man behind luxury restaurants Brasserie Pakhuis in Ghent, Dock Cafes in Antwerp and La Quincailleria in Brussels, has flown into Bangkok to man the kitchens and is capably assisted in the pairings by the hotel’s beer sommelier. 

Lefever tempted our palates with a five- course dinner that started with the savoury and addictive North Sea shrimp croquette served with fried parsley. This rich and slightly greasy appetiser was paired with Hoegaarden Witbier, a light, cleansing and summery wheat beer. The sweet and sour brew, which is a little bitter and slightly spicy with a strong touch of coriander and a hint of orange, cleanses and refreshes the palate. 

Next up was langoustine served in Jerusalem artichoke puree, marinated radish and cucumber. Creamy but light with the earthy mouthfeel from the artichoke and the radish contrasting with the savoury langoustine, it was enhanced with Vedett Extra White. A speciality of the Duvel Moortgat Brewery, a Flemish family-controlled brewery founded in 1871, Vedette Extra White boasts a delicious refreshing taste and is surprisingly crisp with citrus notes that round out the whole flavour profile with a mildly bitter taste and dry finish. 

The last of the appetisers was soup of Belgian endive served with smoked mussel. Again, the dish had a pleasantly strong earthy taste with slight saltiness from the mussel and a tingling, peppery finish. Instead of going for a floral, citrusy beer similar to the previous pour, the sommelier recommended something drier and more bitter like the popular lager Stella Artois from Leuven in Belgium. The suds are crisp, bitter and hoppy but with a good underlying malty sweetness, which helped soothe the earthy taste of the dish. Hints of lemon and summery fruit brightened the palate.

The main event of the evening was rack of lamb slow roasted in hay and served with roasted root vegetables and mustard sauce. The succulent meat, with the addition of sweet roasted vegetables and a peppery and salty mustard sauce, was paired with three suggestions: La Chouffe Strong Pale Ale, Duvel Strong Pale Ale and Leffe Brown Pale Ale. 

For a cleansing and vibrant taste, the best choice was the unfiltered blond from La Chouffe, which is pleasantly fruity and slightly spiced with coriander and hops.

For a heartier beer that’s not too overwhelming, Duvel Strong Pale Ale is smooth and creamy on the palate, while the lively carbonation creates a light mouthfeel and crispness. It also has a malty sweetness and slightly spiced note that went well with the sauce. The last option, Leffe Brown, is the liveliest of all three. A light-bodied and easy-drinking ale, it boasts an oat bread and caramel note and a slightly honey and hoppy finish. They honey finish smoothed the sharpness of the mustard. 

Other must-try dishes include smoked eel, fried mussels, cod fillet and crushed potato, leek and buttermilk, shrimp and beer mousseline sauce and grilled sole and fries. 

 

Best of beer

>> “A Taste of Belgium” by Chef Koen Lefever continues until tomorrow at Prime Steakhouse of Millennium Hilton Bangkok by the Chao Phraya River. 

>> The degustation set menu is priced at Bt3,500 net per person for food only, and it costs an extra Bt1,000 wit the beer pairing. The food and beer are also available a la carte. 

>> Reservation is recommended. Call (02) 442 2000.