A Zense of taste

KNOWN AND LOVED as much for its alfresco dining area that offers a terrific view of the Bangkok skyline as for a menu featuring the cuisine of five leading restaurants, Zense restaurant is welcoming the year of the goat with a revamp that’s guaranteed to please.

European, Italian and Indian favourites served by To Die For, Gianni Ristorante and Red respectively remain in place but the Thai selection sees a switch from White Cafe to Phojana and the Japanese dishes from Kikusui to Shintori, one level up from Zense. Desserts and pastries are, as always, made by the in-house chefs.

Zense was first introduced to the Bangkok dining scene in 2008 then relaunched in 2012 with a sophisticated facelift after being forced to close for two years following the arson attack on CentralWorld during the May 2010 riots around Ratchaprasong intersection. The slanting staircases stands in the centre of this multi-level restaurant with a total floor area of more than 6,000 square meters, while the walls mimic the fold of pleated fabric and several chairs are upholstered in houndstooth tweed.

The seating is random with a range of options that include long and low tables in the air-conditioned indoor area that can seat up to 170 guests, plus beanbags, divans and comfortable sofas in the bar zone. A private room for 12 people is available along with a private party zone for 20 on the mezzanine floor with plenty of cosy corners. 

Weather permitting, the terrace, which can seat about 200 diners, remains the most popular venue and is illuminated by coloured light boxes that add depth to the floor and outdoor bar.

Phojana is a new Thai restaurant brand under the umbrella of the European-themed To Die For. Under the direction of Buranee Rachjaibun, Phojana aims to offer authentic Thai dishes with a twist in the presentation.

One of best-selling dishes among foreign diners is fried rice with pineapple (Bt280). It’s beautifully presented in a hollowed-out pineapple that’s filled with pineapple, cashew nuts, Chinese sausage and curry powder with fresh vegetables and condiments. 

Ideal for a group of four is the plat

 ter featuring crispy pastry cups, crispy rice noodles and rice crackers with three curries – chicken green, chicken red and shrimp red (Bt360). The curries are served in separate cups and are best enjoyed by spooning them separately into a pastry cup along with the crispy rice noodles.

Crispy flaked salmon is substituted for the usual puff-fried catfish with fish and mango sauce. The dish (Bt390) has the salmon sitting on a bed of wild mushrooms in fish sauce with a boiled egg. For a spicier kick choose the Japanese glass noodle salad with minced pork, shrimp, tomato and crispy seaweed (Bt290).

The red curry with betel leaves, crabmeat and shimeji mushroom (Bt490) goes well with jasmine rice but is a little too sweet and fad. More enjoyable was the shrimp and salted egg dip served with crispy fried fish and fresh and boiled vegetables (Bt280).

To Die For by Nida Sudasna also presents a range of new contemporary European dishes. If you’re dining with a group of friends, order the To Die For platter (Bt1,350), which boasts duck foie gras with truffle salt and pear tart, Hokkaido scallop with mango salsa, fried crab cake, and baked Manila clams with cheese and garlic.

Offering different textures and flavourful mouth bursts is almond crusted sea bass (Bt590) featuring roasted sea bass fillet topped with crusted almonds and herbs in butter caper sauce and served with vegetable stew. Equally tempting are roasted chicken stuffed with chorizo and served with sauteed potato, mushroom and brandy sauce (Bt320) and a rack of juicy BBQ Kurobuta pork spareribs marinated with rosemary and thyme and served with French fries and garden salad (Bt520).

Do save room for the range of creative desserts created by the new pastry chef Soradit Mauratai. His pink champagne jelly with muscato wine sorbet mixed with gold leaf and topped with blueberry, raspberry and strawberry and grape foam is served in a martini glass and is fruity and refreshing.

Another must-try is the light and rare white chocolate cheesecake, which comes with white chocolate sauce, raspberry sorbet and sea salt meringue.

 

 

TASTE OF THAI

>>Zense is on the 17th floor of Zen at CentralWorld. It’s open daily from 5pm till late. Call (02) 100 9000 or visit www.HeavenBangkok.com.