'Little princes' of Mae Hong Son

The Poi Sang Long ceremony, the country’s most colourful and vibrant novice initiation, returns to the beautiful northern province of Mae Hong Son from the end of March through the beginning of April.

The traditional novice ordination for members of the Tai Yai hilltribe offers spectators a moving and colourful glimpse of up-country life that’s far removed from the usual sightseeing.

Mae Hong Son municipality and Wat Klang Thiang are hosting the celebration from April 4 to 6.

The Tai Yai, who are scattered all over Mae Hong Son, believe that young boys who become novices and study the Lord Buddha’s teachings bring their parents great merit.

The hosts of the ceremony, as well as other contributors, also gain merit. They’re referred to as “phor kham mae kham” – the father and mother sponsors.

The name of the ordination ceremony combines the Tai Yai words poi, meaning “arrangement”, sang (or chao sang), meaning “novices” and long (or along), which means “prince”.

Poi Sang Long has become a special festival for Mae Hong Son, which takes great pride in the beautiful Sang Long procession. Only in Mae Hong Son can this Tai Yai tradition be viewed, so it attracts many tourists and merit-makers.

The festival opens with the Sang Long receiving day. In the morning the hosts take all the boys to the temple, where they don their costumes as Tai Yai princes – silver belts, curved-edge, tube-shaped shirts with floral prints and bright loincloths with fabric at the back folded into a floral petal.

They put their hair up, wrap a piece of silk around their heads and decorate it. They also wear facial makeup to emphasise their eyebrows and lips.

After paying homage to the monks and receiving their blessings, the boys climb on the necks of their “ta pae sang long”, who will carry them on a worshipful round of holy places. They visit the city pillar and its guardian spirit shrine and the governor's shrine, as well as their abbot and senior relatives.

In the procession, the novices are shielded by tee-kam gilded umbrellas.

The second day is known as “Hae Khuar Loo” Day, when offerings are carried in another procession of novices, among them the monks' “eight necessities”, moon-shaped bells, the governor's horse, celestial trees, gold and silver candles and shrubs. Many people join the parade to help carry the offerings.

In the evening, there is traditional Tai Yai entertainment complete with folk songs and peacock dances.

The third is Kam Sang Day, also known as Loo Day, when the novices are formally ordained and the monks given offerings. Afterward there's a party for all the participants at the temple.

 

      At a glance

<< Poi Sang Long Festival takes place in Mae Sariang district from March 30 to April 3, and in downtown Mae Hong Son from April 4 to 6. Hotels tend to be full during the festival, so you are advised to book well in advance.

<< Chiang Mai is your gateway to Mae Hong Son, a province with spectacular scenery and cool weather all year round. With a long ribbon of road, this small province is ideal for a real road trip. Plan you trip ahead, rent a car at Chiang Mai Airport and hit the road. You’ll find the route and much more in  The Nation’s Weekend Drive series – “Weekend Road Trips Around Chiang Mai” (Bt295).

<< For more information, call (053) 612 016 or (053) 612 9823, or visit TravelMaeHongSon.org.