No butlers but lots of opulence

Picturesque Highclere Castle set among rolling English hills and meadows just south of Newbury is instantly recognisable to millions of television viewers across the globe as the setting for the smash-hit period drama “Downton Abbey”.

Not surprisingly, the vast Jacobean-style country house set in a 1,000-acre Hampshire estate has become a popular destination for fans of the series looking to imagine the lives of Downton Abbey's fictional characters like Lord Grantham, Lady Mary and butler Carson.

Not only is the drama currently Britain’s most popular series, it has become an export phenomenon and has been sold to more than 100 countries, counting even US First Lady Michelle Obama amongst its loyal fans.

Screenwriter Julian Fellowes set “Downton Abbey” in northern England although the filming location of Highclere Castle is situated south-west of London, while the indoor scenes set "downstairs" among the servants work are shot at Ealing Studios in West London.

The approach to the Highclere Castle is just like it appears on television with rolling hills, countless sheep and impressive stand-alone trees. “There it is,” exclaims one of the excited tourists in the group as the castle’s distinctive Gothic turrets finally loom into view.

Highclere castle has been home to the various Earls of Carnarvon, one of the oldest English aristocratic families, for over 300 years. Memories of the achievements of the family’s most famous member, George Herbert, the fifth Earl of Carnarvon, are kept alive thanks to the Egyptian Exhibition he founded in the castle’s cellar.

The fifth earl expended huge sums in his search for the grave of Tutankhamun and was rewarded on November 27, 1922, when along with his archaeological colleague Howard Carter, he discovered the tomb of the Egyptian pharaoh.

When the earl asked, “Can you see anything?” as Carter looked through a hole in a locked door, his companion replied with the famous words: “Yes, wonderful things”.

When Carnarvon died just four months later as a result of a mosquito bite, the papers of the time claimed he had fallen victim to a curse of the pharaoh.

The Carnarvons are still very well connected as evidenced by a small framed photo on an inconspicuous chest of drawers showing the family posing with the late Princess Diana.

However, there is not a hint of aloofness when a smiling Countess Fiona Carnarvon kitted out in Wellington boots and jeans strolls across the courtyard to greet the visiting group.

Although the countess and her husband, the eighth earl, move to an annex near the stables when filming is taking place in the main house, their home is not a museum. The castle contains around 300 rooms and in recent years the family have discovered some more after finding a previously unknown stairway behind a secret door.

Despite its size, Highclere Castle still seems significantly smaller than Downton Abbey appears on television. It also feels a little bereft of life because the castle has long ceased to house the 60 servants it used to employ, since servants are no longer satisfied with board and low pay.

The servants’ quarters and kitchen no longer exist which is why these scenes are shot at Ealing. One of the show’s great achievements is to present the lives of the servants working downstairs seamlessly with those of the aristocrats living upstairs even if the scenes are filmed weeks apart in different locations.

Visitors can wander through the marble-pillared entrance hall and endless spectacular rooms where much of the series is set. In one hallway, there is even an original bell-pull board including one for the Earl of Carnarvon’s steam bath.

When the castle was fully staffed, the earl simply had to push a button in any room and a bell rang downstairs to alert the servants that he was in need of assistance. A light illuminated on the bell-pull board to indicate which room the earl was to be found in.

Today, all finance generated from the castle’s new-found fame flows into maintaining this huge building.

Although Highclere Castle attracts plenty of visitors and is available for hosting weddings, conferences and corporate events, it is clear from the flaking paint and draughty windows that the Carnarvons are in a constant financial battle to survive.

Anyone who has lived in an old house knows how much time, money and effort needs to be spent maintaining it, says Countess Carnarvon.

A large part of the furniture has to be stored in one room when filming takes place, making it look almost unloved. The Countess is acutely aware of the sadness brought about by the castle’s almost all-pervading silence compared to the vibrancy it exuded in times gone by.

“It can be wonderful when guests come here,” she explains. “Upstairs you hear the sound of footsteps and voices but the most beautiful thing is to walk along the corridors and to see light shining out from under the doors.”

It is at times like these that the Countess thinks to herself: “Highclere is alive again”.