Of ghosts, strange creatures and red phallic symbols

Folks in Dan Sai, Loei province are getting ready to  celebrate Phi Ta Khon, Thailand’s most colourful and vibrant festival, on July 11, inviting visitors to join them in the fun and take advantage of some of the best travel photography experience s the country has to offer. 

This famous festival features colourful parades headed by throngs of “ghosts” and “fearsome creatures” who play with the crowds and occasionally wag and wave a whopping great pink wood penis at onlookers.

The origins of the festival have been lost to history, but some believe the Lord Buddha had a hand in it. 

They say King Vessandorn – an incarnation of Buddha – relinquished his throne for awhile to live like a monk in the forest. His decision to return to the court was cause for celebration, it’s said, and the spirits of the woods joined the local people in dancing into town.

To this day, and aided by a successful tourism campaign, Dan Sai district hosts a Boon Luang merit-making ceremony as part of the festival, which features the country’s most spectacular parade of ghosts.

On July 10, the eve of the celebration, the spirits assemble before dawn at Wat Phon Chai and drift in a parade to the Meun River, where white pebbles are collected from the riverbed as tokens for Phra Upakud, a local Buddha statue that’s used in rainmaking rituals. The pebbles are consecrated and taken back to the temple for more rites honouring Phra Upakud while firecrackers clatter and home-made rockets are launched with a whoosh.

Visitors can hover in the temple grounds and watch as the locals don their scary costumes for the bigger parade the next day.

The long-nosed masks are made from coconut husks and bamboo baskets once used as rice steamers. Scruffy trousers and shirts are ripped then painted in primary colours.

Many ghosts are decorated with small bells, usually borrowed from water buffaloes, so they jingle when they jump out and tease the onlookers.

On the second day, the ghosts parade a Buddha image around, while monks chant the story of Buddha's reincarnation. The culmination is the mayhem of ghost parades, when all inhibitions are let loose. Funny rather than scary, the grotesque procession draws laughter as the ghosts tease the crowds with their huge phallic sticks. 

Fuelled by live bands and rice wine, the vibrant procession beckon onlookers to dance along, offering the ultimate opportunity for a knees up before the arrival of the three-month Buddhist Lent. 

Phi Ta Khon Festival ends peacefully and spiritually on July 12, the third day, when the villagers offer food to the monks and attend a sermon at the temple.

      

If you go

>> Buses to Loei leave from Bangkok's Mor Chit terminal. Dan Sai is about 85 kilometres away from the provincial town.

>> Hotels fill up fast, so you might need to bring a sleeping bag and bunk down at Sri Phonchai temple.