Lights on the water, lanterns in the sky

Thailand’s favourite festival Loy Krathong is back this Sunday and, as usual, millions of Thais will be heading to the waterways to launch floats of leaves and flowers – krathong, as they are known – to ask the forgiveness of Ganga, the goddess of the river, for their transgressions of the past year and also to sweep away their bad luck and worries with the current as she scoops up their humble krathong offerings.

From early evening to midnight, the same pleas and petitions will be repeated across the country. Here’s an overview of some of the bigger celebrations.

 

BANGKOK

If there is a spiritual guardian in the river, its godmother must surely live in the Chao Phraya. On Sunday, Bangkokians will bring light to the river through spectacular showcases. Feast your eyes on illuminated barges with different themes all along the Chao Phraya River from the Memorial Bridge to Krungthon Bridge. 

Asiatique, the Riverfront on Chao Phraya, is throwing what promises to be the year's best party to date, with a series of cultural shows, performances and fireworks. 

Chulalongkorn University, Thammasat University (Tha Phrachan campus) and Golden Temple will also be crowded with families, lighting their candles and launching their beacons of hope and forgiveness out onto the waters. 

 

CHIANG MAI

The former capital of old Lanna Kingdom is one of the best places to be to celebrate the festival of light in unique and subtle way, as the city will fly thousands of lanterns to the moon. The people of the North turn Loy Krathong upside-down, releasing their offerings into the heavens. The sky in Chiang Mai will be brightly lit as local folk launch lanterns - home-made hot-air balloons known as khom loi – to glorify the mythical Chulamanee Pagoda in heaven. The venues are Tha Phae Gate and along the banks of Ping River, where cultural shows and processions will also take place. 

However, your best bet might be the temples, where you can see monks and the residents of Chiang Mai revive the traditional Yi Peng ceremony. People will also be hanging elaborate lanterns outside their homes. If you want to be in the thick of things, head to the bustling Ngua Lai Street near the Tha Phae Gate.

 

AYUTTHAYA

The royalty of Ayutthaya in the 18th century were too busy fighting off the Burmese to celebrate Loy Krathong, but citizens kept the festival alive on the local waterways. On Sunday night the loveliest scenes promise to be in the old city including the Golden Mountain of Ayutthaya. There will be a lantern competition, a Miss Noppamas pageant and cultural performances. In addition, the Royal Arts and Crafts Centre in Bang Sai will organise “The Candlelight of Loy Kratong Festival 2013” in the traditional way. Check it out for traditional Loy Krathong festivities as well as musical shows featuring songs from yesteryear. 

 

SUKHOTHAI

This is where it all began, and it is perhaps the best place to celebrate. The Thai kingdom's first capital is credited as the birthplace of Loy Krathong, so you can expect full honours to be paid to the legacy on Sunday night in the Sukhothai Historical Park, a Unesco World Heritage site. Against a backdrop of the ancient ruins, the highlights include a light-and-sound cultural show, fireworks and onstage performances. Look out for the Miss Noppamas beauty pageant. The story has it that Noppamas was a consort of the 14th-century king of Sukhothai Loethai. She supposedly sowed the seeds for the Loy Krathong tradition by being the first person to float a decorated raft. 

 

TAK

The northern province of Tak has a unique take on Loy Krathong with its tradition of krathong sai, or krathong “strings”. The locals tie together entire fleets of coconut-shell lanterns fuelled by paraffin, light the wicks and float them down the river. The best place to be is the Sompot Krung Rattanakosin 200 Years Bridge, where you can admire the fireworks, ooh and aah over a curtain-of-water display and cheer for your favourite krathong sai.

 

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

Simple, unspoilt and packed with character, Samut Songkhram province goes green and traditional as it shows respect to Goddess of River. A few years ago, the locals reinvented their krathong using just banana leaves and candles. The simple krathong has since won many environment-friendly fans and become an archetype of the offering. The festival will take place at King Rama II Park and feature a khon performance, puppet show and showcase of banana art to add colour to the full moon night.