Shaking up the soul
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Head to Loei this weekend and get up close and cosy with Dan Sai's vibrant ghosts.
With the temperatures dropping as the monsoon rains take hold, Loei province in Thailand’s Northeast is a wonderful place to spend some time. And no time is better than this weekend when the small district of Dan Sai is over-run by ghosts that are far more humorous than horrific. The Phi Ta Khon Festival, which runs from Friday through Sunday morning, is a colourful event that’s unique to Dan Sai, one that sees the men don weird-looking ghost masks and wear a huge wood phallus to tease the visitors – the women in particular.
The famous festival, which draws thousands of visitors every year, features colourful parades led by “ghosts” and “fearsome creatures” who play with the crowds and occasionally wag and wave a whopping great pink wood penis at onlookers.
The origins of the festival have been lost to history, though many say they can be found in Buddhism.
Legend has it that King Vessandorn – an incarnation of the Buddha – relinquished his throne for awhile to live as a hermit monk in the forest. His decision to return to the court was cause for celebration and so the spirits of the woods joined the local people in dancing into town.
To this day, and fuelled by a successful tourism campaign, Dan Sai district hosts a Boon Luang merit-making ceremony as part of the festival and this features the country's most spectacular parade of ghosts.
On Friday, the eve of the celebration, the spirits assemble before dawn at Wat Phon Chai and drift in a parade to the Meun River, where white pebbles are collected from the riverbed as tokens for Phra Upakud, a local Buddha statue used in rainmaking rituals. The pebbles are consecrated and taken back to the temple for more rites honouring Phra Upakud while firecrackers clatter and home-made rockets are launched with a whoosh.
Visitors can hover in the temple grounds and watch as the locals don their scary costumes for the bigger parade the next day. The Phi Ta Khon dancing contest and other fun activities take place around the temple.
The long-nosed masks are made from coconut husks and bamboo baskets once used as rice steamers. Scruffy trousers and shirts are ripped then painted in primary colours.
Many ghosts are decorated with small bells, usually “borrowed” from the local water buffaloes, so they jingle when they jump out and tease the onlookers.
On the second day, Saturday, the ghosts parade around with a Buddha image, while monks chant religious hymns telling the story of King Vessandorn.
The Phi Ta Khon Festival should be on the travel list of all shutterbugs as it guarantees some amazing shots.
The culmination is the mayhem of ghost parades, when all inhibitions are let loose. Funny rather than scary, the grotesque procession draws laughter as the ghosts tease the crowds with their huge phallic sticks.
Serenaded by hip-shaking Isaan music and fuelled by rice wine, the vibrant procession beckons onlookers to dance along, offering the ultimate opportunity for a knees up before the arrival of the three-month Buddhist Lent.
Phi Ta Khon Festival ends peacefully and spiritually on Sunday, when the villagers offer food to the monks and attend a sermon at the temple.
LINGER IN LOEI
Loei province has more to share with visitors than this annual festival. Here are a few places worth making a detour for.
CHIANG KHAN
What was once a sleepy, little-known riverside town offering a peaceful retreat for young backpackers who enjoyed the view of the Mekong River and the mountains of Laos, Chiang Khan has become a “trendy” destination for Thais. Once in Chiang Khan, many Thai visitors get around on foot or rent a vintage bicycle. With traditional timber houses, chic-and-cheap guesthouses and tacky gift shops, Chiang Khan is definitely your selfie destination.
PHU RUEA NATIONAL PARK
The National Park is best known for being |home to Thailand’s coldest peak but the panoramic views, flora and nature trails won’t disappoint. Standing at the lookout, at 1,365 metres the |park’s highest point, you will enjoy watching the views of Mekong and Hueang rivers as well as mountainous terrain of Laos on the other side |of the rivers. Visitors can rough it in tents or |enjoy a little luxury in the park’s cabins. |For more information, call the park at (088) 509 5299.
SRI SONG RAK PAGODA
Located in Dan Sai district, the pagoda was established in the 1560s during the Ayutthaya Period as a symbol of camaraderie between the Ayutthaya and Sri Sattana Khanahut kingdoms. True to its name, Sri Song Rak (love of two kingdoms) has a strong sense of friendship. The sizeable white pagoda is popular with visitors from both sides of the border.
SUAN HIN PHA NGAM
Billed as Loei’s Kunming for its “stone forest”, |this gigantic garden in Nong Hin district, is known for its limestone formations. With tall rocks |looking as though they are tumbling to the |ground and others shaped like trees, the park is |well worth a visit for anyone interested in a |forest made of stone. The park is managed by |the local administration and it charges a small admission fee. It’s open daily from 8am to 8pm. Call (042) 812 812.
IF YOU GO
< AirAsia and Nok Air operate daily flights between Bangkok and Loei. Dan Sai is about 85 kilometres from the provincial town. Phitsanulok, to which both airlines also offer daily flights, is the best alternative gateway to Dan Sai district – a three-hour journey – for those preferring a fly-and-drive deal. There are many more choices for car rental in Phitsanulok than Loei.
< Hotels in Dan Sai fill up fast, so you might need to bring a sleeping bag and bunk down at Sri Phonchai temple or a national park. Dan Sai is 62km from Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park and 42km from Phu Ruea National Park. Another option is to stay in Chiang Khan, a two-hour drive from Dan Sai.
