The Beijing wine bar-restaurant Scarlett is so popular that it’s branching out, with a kid sister just opened on the 37th floor of the Sofitel Bangkok Silom Hotel. More than 150 wines are served with cheese, cold cuts, tapas and French chef Manuel Martinez’s “old-time favourites”.
Martinez – who has a pair of Michelin stars from the Relais Louis XIII in Paris and “master chef” stature in France – was in town briefly to get local appetites well and truly whetted.
Martinez was for a while in charge at Paris’ venerable restaurant La Tour d’Argent, only to return to the Relais Louis XIII to restore its lost Michelin stars.
The Bangkok banquet began with a surprise from Martinez and executive chef Sylvain – an egg poached in Pinot Noir, which was excellent, done just right and bringing a smile to everyone’s face.
Then it was into the advertised menu with dumplings of French river pike in a Chardonnay sauce. This turned out to be the star of the night, smooth with its mousse and tasty with the gratin finish. The fish melted in the mouth.
Martinez’s signature dish was next – lobster and foie gras ravioli in porcini cream sauce. The large ravioli tasted perfect, and pairing sweet lobster with rich foie gras was inspired.
The main course was roasted lamb shoulder confit and chop, and the meat was tender and tasty and very French, with the portions just right.
Then came Mille Feuilles “Saint Augustin”, the chef’s famous sweet made with Bourbon vanilla light cream. Everyone loved it.
Martinez emerged to meet his fans, a tall man with a big smile. He spoke no English but we could sense he was happy in his work and with his second visit to Bangkok.
With 400 square metres, Scarlett can accommodate up to 160 guests, including 40 on an open-air terrace with a great view of the city. On offer are 10 wines by the glass, the labels changing randomly, as well as premium spirits and cocktails including the Pandanus Aqueduct and Sparkle and Fade.
“Scarlett is an ideal place for breaking away from routine and adding some fun to life,” hotel general manager Guy Poujoulat declared. He counted it among the hotel’s “extensive renovation programme” designed to re-brand it by April as the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G.