A master class in malt

You would certainly expect “experts on Scotch whisky” to be flying most of the time. But that’s literally what Ewan Gunn and Tom Jones of John Walker & Sons did earlier this month at the behest of Diageo Moet Hennessy (Thailand), arriving in Bangkok to conduct a master class in single malts.
Gunn is the firm’s “global whisky master” and category-training manager, while Tom Jones (not the singer, though he CAN sing) is the global brand ambassador.
They covered the broad selection in premium single malts and shared some fascinating stories about Scotland’s whisky-producing regions, which they explained are every bit as diverse as the celebrated wine regions of France.
“Between Ewan and I, we have nearly 40 years’ experience in the industry,” Jones declared. “You could say we know everything there is to know about the Scotch-whisky production process.”
Then he waxed a bit supernatural.
“The real beauty is that, while single malts are traditionally made using only water, barley and yeast, there’s still an element of magic that goes into making these award-winning whiskies.”
Actually, by “magic”, he meant the “skill and craft” of the master distillers, which “give each of these malts its own distinguished style, nose and unique character”.
    The Bangkok class got to sample Glenkinchie 12 Year Old from the distillery of that name not far from Edinburgh but also not far from the English border, in the Scots Lowlands. The area has long been the source of much of the whisky used in blending others, its product much lighter than elsewhere because there’s little or no peat flavour to it.
Light, fresh and floral in character, Glenkinchie is a typical lowland whisky, with notes of lemon and fresh-cut grass. Its sweet nose and just a hint of peat make it a good introduction to the world of single malts. If you’re a starter doing Single Malt 101, this is the way to begin.
    Further north in Scotland, in the fabled Highlands, the whiskies are often described as bold and big-bodied, but because the region is so vast and diverse it’s difficult to categorise its whiskies that specifically.
For an honest taste of the Highlands, though, start with Dalwhinnie 15 Year Old. Fruity and spicy with citrus, malted bread and a hint of honey, it’s medium malt that’s very smooth and leaves a sensational lingering finish in the mouth.
If you feel more adventurous, opt for Oban 14 Year Old with its rich but not mouthful body and the tastes of dried fig, honeyed spice and a slight smokiness. It’s been described as “the whisky that brings autumn memories”.
    More than half of Scotland’s malt-whisky distilleries are in Speyside, the lush, fertile valley of the River Spey. The ones that originate there are usually characterised as fruity and spicy, elegant, complex and rich with layers of flavours.
A fine representative from this area is the gold-hued Craggenmore 12 Year Old, with a strong malt taste but also well rounded with floral fragrances and hints of vanilla and honey.
    Flowers, vanilla, honey? Is that what Scotland really tastes like? Where’s the jab of the thistles and the lash of the freezing cold sea? Where’s Braveheart with his bloody great sword?
Well, if it’s the taste of the rugged, windswept, barren landscapes you want, you trek to Islay and the Isle of Skye, whose single-malt whiskies have more peat for the palate and an undeniable maritime scent.
Lagavulin 16 Year Old from Islay even sports a slight hint of seaweed, contrasting with a deep sweetness and strong malt flavour. The finish is long and warming, the better to protect the region’s kilt-clad warriors from the chill.
    Another tempting choice is Talisker 10 Year Old, as full-bodied as they come and embodying a strong sea-salt nose, more of that peat, and a peppery finish. It’s not as tough as it sounds at first, however, because there’s also a citrus tang and warming malt to chew on, plus a smoky sweetness to it.
And, as true fans of James Bond know, before 007 developed a taste for martinis, Talisker was his tipple of choice.


Jugs for jigs
Find out more about Diageo’s Classic Malts Selection at www.Malts.com.