
Thailand’s retail conglomerates are spinning off beauty divisions to target Gen Z and cost-conscious consumers, leveraging global sourcing to disrupt unofficial imports.
Thailand’s beauty industry has long been an economic outlier. Currently valued at 180 billion baht and projected to reach 290 billion baht by 2034, the sector is undergoing a profound structural transformation.
With the market forecast to grow by an average of 5–7 per cent annually over the next decade, leading retail groups are increasingly moving away from traditional "trolley-and-checkout" grocery models. Instead, they are spinning off dedicated beauty entities to court a "masstige" segment that demands premium quality at aggressive, transparent prices.
On Thursday, TOPS, the food business under Central Retail (CRC), signalled its intent to capture a larger slice of this growth, formally unveiling a standalone version of its LOOKS brand at Robinson Lifestyle Srisamarn. The outlet is the first of 100 freestanding stores planned by 2028.
The move represents a calculated strategic pivot; CRC is abandoning the functional logistics of the supermarket in favour of a dedicated "Beauty Destination" model designed to increase consumer dwell time and engagement.
The ‘Supermarket Ceiling’
Since its inception, LOOKS has operated as a "room concept" within 105 Tops Supermarket branches. While the division recorded double-digit sales growth in 2025, the grocery environment has reached a structural ceiling.
"The grocery mission is about speed and convenience," explained Pakwimol Satawedin, head of Retail Operations for LOOKS at Central Food Retail. "The LOOKS mission is about 'dwell time'—testing, touching, and receiving expert advice."
The commercial logic is sound: facial care accounts for 80 per cent of the Thai beauty market. A consumer selecting a high-performance PDRN serum or ceramide moisturiser requires a consultation-heavy environment that a supermarket aisle simply cannot provide.
Pakwimol added that while the broader economic outlook remains subdued, the majority of Thai consumers are still willing to invest in personal and beauty care. Average monthly spending currently stands at 1,500 baht—a figure that has shown remarkable resilience and has yet to see a decline.
Disrupting the ‘Grey Market’
The timing of the expansion is bold. The market is increasingly fragmented, with mass drugstores like Watsons and Boots squeezed by specialist "masstige" players like Beautrium.
Furthermore, the industry has seen a simultaneous retreat of international prestige brands—such as Biotherm and Urban Decay—leaving a vacuum that local "T-Beauty" and regional Asian brands are filling with speed.
Central Retail’s primary weapon in this fight is a specific 15/35/50 assortment formula:
15% Exclusive Brands: Products unavailable elsewhere in Thailand.
35% Thai Brands: Capitalising on the "T-Beauty" boom.
50% Global Imports: Heavily weighted toward South Korean and Japanese lines.
Crucially, the exclusive tier includes the Korean brand Derma Factory. By pricing its PDRN formulations at 299 baht, CRC is directly targeting the "hiker shops" and grey-market importers who have long dominated the trade in unofficial carry-back goods. This strategy acknowledges that a significant portion of beauty spending was previously bypassing the formal retail ecosystem.
Margin Protection and Digital Integration
Beyond curation, CRC is moving into high-margin own-brand development. In a co-creation agreement with South Korean manufacturer COSMAX, the group is launching Tone Up (colour cosmetics) and Dermaze (skincare).
By following the grocery playbook of private labels—which typically offer margins 15 to 30 percentage points higher than third-party brands—CRC aims to insulate itself from the price wars of the mass market.
The digital dimension is equally aggressive. A dedicated in-house team is now focused on "live commerce" via TikTok. These sessions have reportedly generated upwards of one million baht per hour, reflecting a shift where purchase decisions are made via a smartphone screen long before the customer enters the physical store.
The Verdict
Thanawat Jirajariyavej, managing director, has framed LOOKS as a "new growth engine" to evolve CRC from a traditional supermarket operator into a lifestyle platform.
The beauty market’s trajectory supports this ambition on paper. However, the true test will be whether LOOKS can establish enough brand credibility to justify its freestanding locations against nimble, digital-native competitors. The market will begin to deliver its verdict when the Srisamarn flagship opens on 20 May.