Tabchang steps back in time

A classical Thai pavilion tucked behind lush tropical greenery, Tabchang might be easily mistaken for a private residence or a spa.

Walking through the wooden door of the restaurant on Lat Phrao Soi 71 feels like entering a tranquil park. There’s a big fishpond and a gnarled banyan tree.

You can dine al fresco next to the pond or in an air-conditioned pavilion permeated by traditional melodies piped in and the pleasant, wafting aromas of cooking.

Having been raised on old-fashioned dishes prepared by her grandmother and mum, architect Supada Rattagan is a connoisseur of Thai dishes the way they’re supposed to be done. Too often these days, she laments, restaurant serve Thai-Chinese food or some strange fusion.

By day, Supada designs classic Thai structures in the same building – it’s home to her firm, Panorama Architect. When evening comes the place turns into a charming restaurant serving those wonderful recipes of yesteryear.

Supada pays careful attention to the details and insists on using only the best produce. The river prawns come from Surat Thani, the raw palm from Wangtarn in Phetchaburi, the mackerel from Mae Klong in Sumut Songkhram.

She uses shrimp paste from Rayong, salted eggs from Chaiya in Surat Thani, pla salid (dry salted gourami) from Bang Bo in Samut Prakhan, hand-milled organic rice from Suphan Buri and jasmine rice from Chiang Rai.

All of the curry paste is pounded by hand with mortar and pestle – no electric blenders here – to ensure the right mix and textures.

“We offer homemade, slow-cooked food,” Supada says. “Some of the dishes, like the beef massaman curry, are made by my 85-year-old grandmother. My mum – who’s 60 and an attorney – cooks the rest.

“This is a family business and we cook the same way we’ve always done at home. The service isn’t speedy and the dishes take time to reach the table,” she warns. “And we strongly recommend reservations in advance.”

A great starter is moo krong kraeng (Bt165) – fried sweet-and-crispy pork nuggets coated with chewy syrup that’s made from raw palm sugar. They’re made the same way as the traditional caramelised crisps called krong kraeng.

Also begging to be tried are the deep-fried fishcakes made from spotted featherback (Bt185). The fillets are kneaded and ground by hand, then blended with chilli paste and wing beans rather than the usual long beans. No borax and flour are added, so you have only the natural chewy texture.

Next up is mee krob, the sweet-and-sour crisp-fried rice noodles (Bt175). Som saa (bigarade, aka Seville orange), an increasingly rare and expensive citrus fruit, adds a piquant bitterness. The noodles are served with pickled garlic, bean sprouts and Chinese chives.

The most popular dish at Tabchang is nam phrik long ruea (Bt250), a platter of fluffy deep-fried catfish and fresh vegetables with a chilli-paste dip that’s just the right combination of chillies and fermented shrimp paste. It’s blended with tiny chunks of caramelised pork belly and garnished with pickled garlic and salted egg yolk.

This goes great with steamed brown rice (Bt39 per plate and Bt90 a bowl) or fried rice with salt and pepper (Bt65 per small plate and Bt120 for a large).

The beef massaman curry (Bt295) that Supada mentioned is indeed a must-try. Her granny spends two days cooking it, using a century-old recipe.

Served in a coconut shell, it features beef chuck, fried peanuts and potato, all slowly simmered on a charcoal stove for a day and then left another day to let the magic alchemy work.

The tender prawns from Surat Thani’s Tapee River are magnificent in the spicy shrimp salad (Bt240 for 100 grams). They’re charcoal-grilled and seasoned with herbs and chillies.

Somewhat less spicy is the fluffy omelette with pork crackling and dok sano – Javanese sesbania blossoms (Bt125). Duck egg gives the omelette a golden-brown hue. It’s fried in homemade lard rather than vegetable oil.

There isn’t much choice in the way of desserts, but you won’t be disappointed with the warm, caramelised kluai khai banana topped with coconut cream (Bt39). The fruit is left alone to ripen in its orchard, Supada says, and you just don’t get that flavour with a cured banana.

FAMILY AFFAIR
<< Tabchang is on Nakniwat 41 off Lat Phrao Soi 71 and open daily from 5.30pm to midnight.
<< Book a table at (081) 812 2868 or www.Tabchang.com.