Springtime for Calvin Klein

“Spring 2012 is about bold minimalism,” says Kevin Carrigan, and that’s the way he dressed actors Ananda Everingham, Chakrit Yamnam, Chermarn Boonyasak, Khemanit Jamikorn and Virithipa Pakdeeprasong for the grand reopening of the Calvin Klein store at CentralWorld last week.
    The “global creative director” of ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans also provided the outfits for socialites Jantana Pangputhipong Selby, Polpat Asavaprapha, Anchisa Vacharaphol, Tirawan Pangsrivongse, Chulalux Piyasombatkul and Phaipunnee Taechanarong.
    The 3,500 square feet were packed with people keen to see the redesigned shop and what it has on offer for the sweaty season – sportswear and accessories including bags, watches, footwear and eyewear.
      Male and female models stood on elevated platforms as customers gawked at them and the modern architecture – lots of room, posh lighting, stainless steel, crisp white glass, lacquered surfaces, limestone floor. An elongated glass storefront held an oversized light-box of Calvin Klein ads starring supermodels Liu Wen and Lara Stone.
    “Minimalism can take many forms,” Carrigan told The Nation. “I use the word ‘bold’ because I thought it was time to have bold minimalism, especially in the colours. I use a little bit of Warhol – bright tangerine, acidic yellow, pop red, even in a single outfit. So there’s lots of optimism.”
    The upcoming London Olympics provided ample inspiration, he said, “but I wanted to look more at the sports like diving, fencing and gymnastics, sports that are a little bit more thoughtful, like in how you dive, with that sense of control over an amazing leap.
    “When I started to think about the fabrics and colours I was quite influenced by the water, the wetness, and also by things without water, like deserts. So there is fabric that has a kind of sensual wetness that slips around the body, and fabric that expresses dryness, like linen.”
    Carrigan was asked how he stays so focused after 20 years at Calvin Klein.
    “I work 24/7,” he said, “but I love what I do, so it doesn’t feel like work.
    “I trained at the Royal College of Art in London, which is very much in tune with industrial design, architecture and fashion, and gives you a chance to find out which medium and art form you like most. But in the end, fashion had the quickness in design and turn-around that I really like.
    “It’s easy for me to stay focused because the aesthetics of the house is quite close to my own – clothes have to be tailored beautifully, they have to have proportion, and fit and fabric are the tools I use as an artist.”
    Carrigan sang the praises of American sportswear, a field in which Calvin Klein dominates. “Modern design is about where the girls and guys are going, what they live like, what they do today versus 20 years ago. These are the puzzle parts I have to fill in. Calvin loves classic, very practical clothes, but we’re likely to communicate them in a slightly provocative way.”
    Asked what aspiring designers need to know most, in terms of business, Carrigan said he regularly comes across students who “want to be designer by tomorrow”.
    “I’ve been in the business for 20 years, working on different projects that broadened me as an artist and yet also as a responsible businessman. I’m always visiting the stores, having meetings with the store designers and the advertising people, the photographers. Collaboration is extremely important in getting the best out of the best.
    “So you try to stay focused in your own area but surround yourself with really smart people. It’s like an orchestra and I’m the conductor. Every season we have to move these products into the minds of the consumers, generating excitement over the innovations and new materials.”
    He reckons that “strong brands like Calvin Klein will get stronger” because of their solid standing and products.
    “If you don’t evolve and move on, you’re out. What happens in fashion is the mix and match. Especially in women’s wear there are so many things going on, so many influences, not just from the runways but also the bloggers.
    “People are following the cool girls who do the blogging in Hong Kong, London, Brazil and New York. I feel like they’re interpreting and putting their own things together with colours and proportion.
    “We’re coming into the spring and fall collections, playing with proportion, texture and colour. It’s going to be an interesting season for a year or 18 months. We’re going back to emotionally reconnect again with the clothes. How does it make you feel when you wear it? It’s about the feeling that the clothes give you, ultimately the sexiness, the form, function and beauty.”
    Asked about “eco-fashion”, Carrigan pointed out that Klein uses “sensible fabrics”. “The company has a strong belief in giving back to the community. We don’t use real fur, and we support good work ethics.”
    And digital fashion?
    “We have a Calvin Klein Facebook page and a fashion blog. The ck One campaign is a digital project aimed at 17- to 24-year-olds.
    “Back in 1996 we did an e-mail campaign where consumers could correspond with our models. So our company is always at the forefront, whether it’s in product innovation, communicating or advertising, and we also evolve with our consumers constantly. It’s very revolutionary.”