High Steaks Barbecue

Bangkok diners with a love for yakiniku (that’s Japanese DIY barbecue) may find themselves scratching their heads over the recent opening of Yakiya on Rama III Road. One question being asked is whether this new eatery is actually the old Gyu Gyu Tei that used to occupy the same plot.

The answer is yes… sort of. After two years under the Gyu Gyu Tei franchise, the team behind this yakiniku restaurant have branched out on their own and changed the name to Yakiya – “house of yakiniku”.

Viewed from the parking lot, the simple concrete unit located in the JSP office park gives no clue to the dining treat hidden inside. But step through the door and you get your first taste. The ground floor has a contemporary urban feel with warm lighting and a high-performance ventilation system that means the charcoal-smoke infuses your meat and not the comfortable air-conditioned environment.

The best spot, however, is its riverside al fresco terrace on the second floor, where you can chill and grill overlooking the Chao Phraya River. Many yakiniku restaurants offer all-you-can-eat sessions in a bid to pack in the customers, but Yakiya sticks firmly with its a la carte menu of premium imported and local beef. As a result, flavours are deeper, but diners will need pockets to match.

The menu sacrifices variety to concentrate on a selection of the best beef from around the world. The cuts are divided into three grades. For premium quality you should order beef imported from Japan, including Kuroge chuck (Bt1,300 for a small dish of 100 grams and Bt2,500 for 200 grams), super wagyu (Bt1,00-Bt2,000), Kuroge wagyu (Bt800-Bt1,500), matsuzaka (Bt1,200) and Kobe (Bt1,000).

The Japanese cuts come with silky marbling and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. You can push the condiments to one side – these precious morsels should be savoured au naturel. However, diners are offered three kinds of dipping sauces to choose from: Shoyu for a salty tang; miso-base with the surprising addition of chopped garlic, ground chilli and slices of lemon; and an Isaan-style jaew dip to please Thai palates.

If you prefer to venture beyond Japan’s pastures, the best of Australia is served up in strip loin, chuck or rib eye steaks for Bt400 to Bt500 for a 100-gram dish. For something closer to home, try the Thai-French beef from local farms in different cuts. On this section of the menu are Supergyu chuck for Bt500, the Yakiya special or paleron cut for Bt350, round-bone Hone for Bt350 as well as Jo Karubi and Karubi chuck for Bt160 to Bt200. The lower-grade local beefs may have less juicy fat but their chewier texture comes at a friendlier price. The cuts are chilled rather than frozen, and freshly sliced every day.

If beef is not your thing, home in on the hog, with Kurobuta, or black pork (Bt380), Tonkato loin (Bt140), Tontoro pork neck (Bt140), pork liver (Bt80), bacon (Bt90) and sausage (Bt100). Lovers of seafood can surf a selection of snow fish (Bt500), salmon (Bt400), scallop (Bt350), shrimp (Bt350) and squid (Bt180).

For a bit of fibre to balance your meal, try either the Sanju salad of hydroponic Japanese cucumber and cabbage topped with sesame dressing or the simple Salada – fresh crispy Japanese cucumber and butterhead lettuce – for Bt120 each.

Taste of Tokyo
Yakiya on Rama III Road is open Monday to Friday, 5pm to 11pm, and all day Saturday and Sunday – 11am to 11pm. Call (02) 294 1933 or search for “Yakiya” on Facebook.