The heights of Harajuku

KNOWN THE WORLD over for its unique street styles, the Japanese fashion scene has earned a reputation for its creativity in customising Western and traditional trends with personalised flair. But keeping up with the funky ideas is hard without a trip to Tokyo, which is why Siam Center has partnered with the Japanese government in bringing the first Japan Fashion Week to Bangkok.
Featuring an exposition of top fashion items along with designs from more than 10 leading brands, the trendy threads are on show until March 16 at Idea Avenue on the shopping centre’s first floor.
Pop-up stores showcase and sell items from high fashion brands Christian Dada, Fuguhum, Etw Vonneguet, Joji Kojima, Mark and Lona and Rolca, along with casual wear from Olive des Olive, Nice Claup, Glad News, Vifelle, Majestic Legon, Esperanza, Culture Mart and Blanc de Noir.
Both the well-known designers and creative newcomers are regulars at Tokyo Fashion Week as well as at similar events in England, France, the US, Italy, Russia, India, China, Hong Kong, and Singapore.
Isseki Todokoro of Fugahum is presenting his latest “Picture Dress” collection by Akiyoshi Mishima, a graphic designer and visual artist by training who brings his distinctive art to the world of fashion.
“Everyone can wear art. Our traditional costume, the kimono, is truly an art piece. Fugahum is creating new values under the influence of culture by mixing, arranging and, in particular, renewing beliefs in history,” Todokoro enthuses,
“Refined fabrics and materials are used in this reinterpretation of the kimono with the cutting and sewing techniques making the costume modern and like a piece of art.”
Tokyo-based Etw Vonneguet offers a new perspective on fashion through experimental textile treatments and 3D-computer-graphic pattern cutting so that the garment becomes a platform to challenge society.
“The clothes are unisex with an emphasis on dyeing and while the dresses are in loose, relaxed shapes, and come in only one size, they look sculptural on the wearer,” says Ryosuke Yagi.
Christian Dada showcases the crystal costume worn by Lady Gaga at the MTV Aid Japan Awards, Joji Kojima presents a fascinating jewellery mask, Mark and Lona offers punk style sportswear scene while Rolca has everyday outfits in cotton and linen.
A favourite with South Korean supergroups Big Bang and Super Junior as well as Gaga, Christian Dada by Masanori Morikawa’s individualistic style has a cult following all its own. The designer, who has yet to turn 30, received the DHL award for his autumn-winter 2013 collection and has taken part in both the Berlin and Singapore Fashion Weeks.
Joji Kojima has been designing jewellery and accessories since the age of 15 and prior to launching his label, worked with couture brand Yoshiko Creation Paris. He’s the founder of Hotel Gluttony and produced the chain mail mask worn by Lady Gaga in 2009.
Mark and Lona brings together several trends ranging from preppy to punk and made its name back in 2007 as a luxury golf-oriented brand. Every detail, from fabrics to prints and accessories, is designed and planned in Tokyo, and provides the brand with a made-in-Japan identity. The celeb and vaguely kitsch style is combined with the use of highly functional materials, produced by the company itself through a three-dimensional draping.
Rolca retains its “Made in Japan” identity while simultaneously embracing Mother Nature, with a range of everyday outfits made from purely natural materials like cotton and linen.
But while these popular brands are popular with Japanese fashionistas, its young people prefer to mix and match to come up with outfits that match their personalities and emotions. They flaunt their inimitable styles in Harajuku, Oyama, Ometosando and on Dover Street, turning these shopping destinations into creative catwalks in their own right.
Sombatsara Thirasaroj, Thailand’s top fashion organiser, actress Cris Horwang and socialite Pimlert Baiyoke are all firm fans of Japanese fashion and were on hand at the launch of Japan Fashion Week to chat with the designers and admire the exhibition of cool streetwear collections from such brands as Olive des Olive, Live your life of Kawaii and Nice Claup.
Olive des Olives offers a range of cute fashions for the young and its shoes and accessories are particularly popular with Japanese teens. Live your life of Kawaii – kawaii means cute – is precisely that while Nice Claup and Slow Artwork’s “Glad News” propose styles that are powerful and tough yet still project a sexy lady feel. Vifille is imaginative, pretty and sexy and Majestic Legon bridges the gap from girl to woman with stylish office wear and a range of casuals.
Esperanza shoes made from 100-per-cent Kobe leather are trendy but promise to keep the feet smiling thanks to their excellent cut. Culture Mart offers miscellaneous goods, bags, and caps reminiscent of the designs favoured by Americans from the ’50 to the ’70s.
One label not to be missed and one that is bound to be a hit with the younger crowd is Blanc de Noir by Mamiko Fukuyoshi. Her t-shirts all feature the popular manga rabbit known as Kusomimichan with the bunny displaying various emotions.
“The look is very Tokyo pop – cute, lively and very cool,” she explains.