Silhouettes in black

One of the rare Japanese designers to make it in the West, Yohji Yamamoto is known the world over for his avant-garde spirit and largely credited with having introduced the ‘noir” and “deconstructed” trends to international fashion.
His clothes are available at top-end department stores in several major cities as well as in his dedicated boutiques in Paris and New York. Now Bangkok shoppers are being given the opportunity to become more intimately acquainted with the 70-year-old designer in an exhibition at Siam Center that’s devoted to his life, thoughts and work.
A graduate of the prestigious Bunka Fashion College, he made his Paris debut in 1981 with the Yohji Yamamoto line and later went on to launch the highly successful Y-3. Each carefully designed collection is highly anticipated by collectors and he has been honoured with several awards throughout his 48-year career.
The Bangkok exhibition is interesting albeit rather small. Divided into five zones, it starts by introducing Yamamoto as the creator of a fashion theory that defies the whole world. It also explains how 30 years ago, Yamamoto booked a flight from Paris to Bangkok for a break after wrapping up his showing at Paris Fashion Week, rented a car and drove around the country taking photos. That was the first and only time he visited Thailand. Although the heat of made him feel at home, he always wondered how fashion could be developed in a climate where there are very little differences in the seasons. Thailand’s fashion designers have since answered his questions by producing collections influenced and inspired by his methods.
Bhanu Inkawat, Greyhound’s creative director, credits Yamamoto’s spirit and bravery for his breakthrough on the European fashion market.
“I was still very young at that time. But when I was setting up my own brand, his actions taught me that there is always the possibility for recognition if we are true to ourselves and do something different creatively,” he says.
“Yamamoto as well as his fellow Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons and Issey Miyake, have always incorporated the Japanese character in their designs.”
Polpat Asavaprapa, Asava’s creative director and Bangkok Fashion Society president, says that to him, Yamamoto is the designer for designers.
“Yamamoto’s creation is about much more than fabric. His deconstructive pattern and tailored style represent culture. No matter how many years pass, there is life in his work.”
The Yohji Yamamoto collection for autumn-winter 2014 is showcased in the second zone and clearly reflects the Yamamoto DNA. The designer incorporates illustrations by Japanese artist Yasuto Sadad by hand-painting these on leather coats and dresses. The result is a refreshing blend of craftsmanship and fashion.
Arunothai.. ??? ?? a lecturer at the University of ????? .emphasises that to make it in Paris means having something very special.
“Yamamoto presents a unique design process that translates into a sculptural silhouette. That’s totally in contrast to the European style, which emphasises the women’s feminine shape – her chest, waist, hips,” he says
All three agree that achieving the same level of success as Yamamoto is harder today than in the past.
“The fashion business is more systematic than in the past and we are now seeing much improved cooperation between brands. But to make it as big as say Alexander Wang or Thakoon Panichakul, you really need full support with production and marketing as well as plenty of money behind you,” Bhanu says.
Zone three, which dwells on the designer’s life and work, explains his inspirations. Losing his father in World War II and raised by his seamstress mother, he acquired the feminine perspective at an early age. Images of a Tokyo in ruins and his mother’s black skirt remained imprinted on his memory, triggering what would become his signature oversized silhouettes always in black.
In 1972, he established the women’s fashion brand Y’s Inc and his first collection triggered a defiance against the rules of haute couture that would rule for the next decade. Collaborations with Hermes, Mikimoto and Mandarina Duck followed along with a joining of minds with Adidas for the sport streetwear brand Y-3.
Zone four, the Art Display section, showcases 20 collectible pieces inspired by his designs belonging to such celebrities as Chulita Areepipatkul, Tinnakorn Asvaraks and Chayin Rujirattana. Each piece shows his influence on the world of fashion. For example, loose, oversize jackets with minimal detailing and simple asymmetrical skirts all made with jet-black fabrics are the reason why die-hard fans of Y’s and Yohji Yamamoto are called karasu-zoka. The almost shapeless clothes are like a repetitive projection of the apocalypse, a stark contrast to the lively, happy-go-lucky attitude in the City of Light.
Zone five, meanwhile, projects a video interview with Yamamoto, in which he talks about his life, thoughts and work.


Noir desire
The Yohji Yamamoto exhibition runs through November 11 at Idea Avenue on the first floor of Siam Center.
Admission is free.