SUBLIME on Samui

FOODIES ON Samui finally enjoyed their first Michelin-starred dining experience at W Retreat Koh Samui last weekend as chef Jacob Jan Boerma of the three-Michelin-star restaurant de Leest in Vaassen, the Netherlands, flew in to man the kitchen.
Hosted by the retreat and Food E Productions, the Austrian-born, Netherlands-based master chef cooked up two seven-course wine-pairing dinners over two nights which guests enjoyed in an idyllic beachside setting.
The Restaurant de Leest, of which Boerma is one of the two founders, opened in the summer of 2002 and was awarded its third Michelin star in 2013. Known for his cosmopolitan flair and inspiring approaches, Boerma’s perfectionist nature is evident in the way he prepares and presents his creations, using meticulous culinary techniques and the best quality ingredients available.
The candle-lit dinner by the beach started with three amuse-bouches and our palates were indeed amused by the slightly smoky and savoury lukewarm oyster on smoked puree of spinach and tomato with squid infused broth, as well as tartar of salmon with caviar and lime. The third in the collection was fresh king crab salad with poached duck liver, apple and celery, which surpassed itself in a harmony of tastes, well-rounded flavours and decent play of texture.
All three dishes were paired with Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut from France, whose beautiful aromatic complexity, ripe fruit and spicy aromas went well with savoury seafood ingredients, while the velvety, smooth bubbles helped balanced the flavours and refresh the palate.
The next dish was barbecue lobster and fennel. Here, the grilled chunk of lobster was served with crunchy fennel, young sprouts and a delectable sauce made of lobster juice and curry powder that lent just enough aroma to complement the smokiness of the dish. Paired with Ca’Bolani Pinot Grigio 2014 from Italy’s Zonin Estate, the sweet citrus and summery floral note of the wine helped brighten the dish, making it a very pleasant combination of flavours.
Next up was North Sea turbot served with beetroot and jus made with dill and yoghurt. This unusual combination of ingredients made for an interesting dish, the highlight of which was the jus that enticed the palate with a pleasant contrast of dill and beetroots on one side, and yoghurt and lemon on the other. This complex dish was served with the floral and crisp Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2012 that did a good job of lifting the mood of the dish, and lessening the earthiness of the beetroots.
The main dish was A5 Kobe Wagyu beef prepared at low temperature, served with risotto of zucchini and Parmesan, Moroccan spices and turnip fondant. Low temperature cooking sealed the moist and natural sweetness within the meat, making it succulent and juicy. Served with slightly curried condiments as well as crunchy zucchini, the chef again surprised us with his spice and texture play. The hearty dish was matched with the aromatic and silky Belnero Toscana IGT 2010 from Italy’s Castello Banfi.
Another Italian wine, Moscato d’Asti Nivole 2014, Michele Chiarlo, was paired with the two desserts; raspberry sorbet with cream of verbena and lemon, and mango with ganache of chocolate. The light and delicate body of this medium-sweet wine wonderfully complemented the flowery and citrusy sorbet, while the fruity nose praised the sensually sweet-and-sour combo of mango, lime and fresh fruit in the latter dish.