Wearing a ‘qipao’ is not cultural appropriation

SUNDAY, MAY 20, 2018
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Several social media sites I visited recently carried stories about the controversy over an American student wearing a Chinese qipao to the prom.

The robe was worn by Keziah Daum, a student from a Utah high school with a creative bent of mind. She chose a qipao because she thought other students would play it safe and all wear dresses that were similar to each other. So what’s the fuss?
I searched for articles about the controversy and found that on the Chinese mainland, by far the majority of people showed approval and appreciation for Keziah. In English media outlets, however, the phrase “cultural appropriation” kept coming up. For the uninitiated, the term refers to artifacts, symbols or ideas originally from a minority group inappropriately adopted or displayed by a culturally dominant group – for instance, when a white person puts on adornments of an indigenous
people.
The word qipao is a combination of qi, which refers to the “Man” ethnic group (or the Manchurians) of the Qing Dynasty, and pao, which means robe. The Han people made up the overwhelming majority of the Chinese population during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), as they do today. But toward the later stages of the Qing rule, the Hans adopted the dress tradition of the Manchurians, a minority group. If that’s not cultural appropriation, it should not be an issue for an American to wear a qipao to the prom either.
Many of the critics of Keziah are Asian Americans, who are very likely minority groups in their own communities. I can partly understand their frustration. When they wear dresses like qipaos to events they may be laughed at as exotic, or frowned upon as challenging the local culture, instead of assimilating.
So why is it fine for an American to wear such dresses? The differentiated cultural treatment has white privilege written all over it.
Having two kids growing up in the US, I can understand the struggles of Chinese students in US schools. Chinese Americans, even if they are born and raised in the US, often feel like aliens. Some prejudices and discriminations are real and hurtful.
For instance, in college admissions, students of Chinese descent often have to work against affirmative action-based practices that put them at a disadvantage. They often have to score much higher in American College Test to have the same opportunities as others. Now, even in matters of dress, it seems other groups are trying to take their place.
Keziah later explained that she wore a qipao to show her appreciation for Chinese culture. Since she claimed to have intended no offence, none should be taken. Issues like this are subject to highly subjective interpretations that are not based on entrenched common cultural understanding. However, Keziah should not have peppered her responses with swear words, even if she is frustrated with the unfair backlash.
For the Chinese American youths who took offence, I would advise them to look beyond the narrative of cultural appropriation. Chinese cultural
heritage is little known beyond the confines of the Chinese communities. Go to Netflix and find the category for Chinese movies, and you will see most of them are kung fu films.
If someone finds a qipao to add to the list of Chinese
elements, it should be celebrated, not resented. If someone catches you off guard by using your heritage, treat it as a wake-up call for you to represent it better yourself. Where there is ignorance, enhance understanding. If you see
others as disrespecting your heritage, ask if you have respected it yourself.
You, too, can display
artifacts that show pride in your parents’ or grandparents’ origins. People may laugh at you, but be persistent and proud.

BERLIN FANG is a US-based instructional designer, literary translator and writer