Rites of passage

With school out of the way and summer knocking on the horizon, the time has once again come for Tai Yai boys - or Shan, as they are known outside Thailand - in Mae Hong Son province to take up the religious life. The rite of passage ceremony known as the Poi Sang Long Festival takes place in two week's time and is well worth the long bus or car journey through the mountains to Thailand's north-west frontier.

The ceremony, which takes place over three days and is as every bit as devout as it is festive, sees the boys dressed in ornate costumes and wearing turbans covered with flowers and facial make-up.

The traditional novice ordination for members of the Tai Yai hilltribe offers spectators a moving and colourful glimpse of up-country life that’s far removed from the usual sightseeing.

The name of the ordination ceremony combines the Tai Yai words poi, meaning "arrangement", sang (or chao sang), meaning "novices" and long (or along), which means "prince".

The Tai Yai, who are scattered all over Mae Hong Son, believe that young boys who become novices and study the Lord Buddha's teachings bring their parents great merit and even pave their way to heaven in the after life.

The hosts of the ceremony, as well as other contributors, also gain merit. They’re referred to as "phor kham mae kham" - the father and mother sponsors.

Poi Sang Long has become a special festival for Mae Hong Son, which takes great pride in the beautiful Sang Long procession. Only in Mae Hong Son can this Tai Yai tradition be viewed, so it attracts many tourists and merit-makers.

Temple of Wat Muayto, Mae Hong Song's Mueang district, will be the focal point of Poi Sang Long, and the festival this year runs from April 2 to 4.

The festival will open with the Sang Long receiving day. In the morning the hosts take all the boys to the temple, where they don their costumes as Tai Yai princes - silver belts, curved-edge, tube-shaped shirts with floral prints and bright loincloths with fabric at the back folded into a floral petal.

They put their hair up, wrap a piece of silk around their heads and decorate it. They also wear facial makeup to emphasise their eyebrows and lips.

After paying homage to the monks and receiving their blessings, the boys climb on the necks of their "ta pae sang long" - usually older male relatives - who will carry them on a worshipful round of holy places. They visit the city pillar and its guardian spirit shrine and the governor's shrine, as well as their abbot and senior relatives.

In the procession, the novices are shielded by tee-kam gilded umbrellas.

The second day is known as "Hae Khuar Loo" Day, when offerings are carried in another procession of novices, among them the monks' "eight necessities", moon-shaped bells, the governor's horse, celestial trees, gold and silver candles and shrubs. Many people join the parade to help carry the offerings.

In the evening, there is traditional Tai Yai entertainment complete with folk songs and peacock dances.

The third is Kam Sang Day, also known as Loo Day, when the novices are formally ordained and the monks given offerings. Afterward there's a party for all the participants at the temple.

 

WHEN TO GO: Poi Sang Long Festival takes place in Mae Hong Song's Mueang district from April 2 to 5. It is also held in other Tai Yai communities in Mae Sariang (April 1-3 and 5-7) and Pai district (April 2-4).

 

GETTING THERE: Chiang Mai is the gateway to Mae Hong Son province and its airport is served by both domestic and international flights. Kan Air (www.KanAirlines.com) operates a daily flight from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son and Pai districts. There are also public bus and mini-van services between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son.

Mae Hong Son is ideal for a real road trip. Plan your trip ahead, rent a car at Chiang Mai Airport and hit the road.

 

For more information, call Tourism Authority of Thailand's Mae Hong Son office at (053) 612 982 to 3