Songkran on two wheels: A wet, wet cycling trip through Southern Thailand

Songkran, with its wild splashes and heartfelt blessings, is best experienced not in the bustling streets of Bangkok but in the quiet rhythms of rural life.

Few places capture that charm better than Ban Thale Noi, a sleepy lakeside village in the Phatthalung district in Southern Thailand.

Forget the tourist–packed cities. For those craving a more authentic, soul-filling celebration of Songkran, Ban Thale Noi is where time slows down and the spirit of Thai tradition truly shines.

And getting there? That’s half the adventure.

It’s a convenient staging point with easy access from Kuala Lumpur; night buses run daily, and train services head straight to Hat Yai Junction.

Planning to bring your bicycle? Double-check with the train operator, or opt for a chartered car or self-driving.

And if you do bring the bicycles on the train, remember to declare them at the Malaysian Customs checkpoint to avoid hiccups on the return.

Once you land in Hat Yai, saddle up. Two main routes will take you to Ban Thale Noi – but for first-timers, the East Coast path via Songkhla, Sathing Phra and Ranot is a scenic, cyclist-friendly option.

Expect smooth roads, plenty of rest stops and an ever-changing view of southern Thai life unfolding along the way.

The first leg of the journey takes one to Songkhla, a short ride ideal for shaking off the travel cobwebs.

Stay overnight, fuel up on local fare and get some rest, because the next push to Ranot, about 95km away, will test your legs.

Ranot is a small but charming town. Accommodation is limited, especially during Songkran, so book early.

From here, it’s just a scenic 48km ride to your final destination, Ban Thale Noi, crossing the majestic King Rama IX 80th Anniversary Bridge at dawn.

The best view is to watch the sun rise over Lake Thale Noi from the saddle, a memory that will outlast the saddle sores.

Ban Thale Noi doesn’t explode into chaos during Songkran; instead, it simmers with a quiet joy.

Locals gather at the temple for morning blessings, then return home for family meals.

By midday, the water fights begin – not the wild street battles of Bangkok, but cheerful neighbourhood splashings that still carry the festival’s essence: renewal, respect and release.

Don’t miss a boat ride on Thale Noi Lake, ideally at sunrise.

The lake, which joins with the larger Songkhla Lake, is famous for its waterfowl and blooming lotus fields.

The silence of the early morning, interrupted only by the flutter of wings or the slap of an oar, is pure magic.

Food is everywhere, and cheap. Make sure to try the lotus stalks in yellow curry, a local delicacy, and brace for the intense, lip-burning heat of Gaeng Som, Southern Thailand’s signature sour curry. Just one bite and you’ll reach for water (or another splash from the locals).

After a couple of days soaking in the sights, sounds and spices of Ban Thale Noi, one will be ready to head home.

There are several return options: backtrack to Pak Khlong to catch a train, or cycle onwards to Phatthalung.

If one continues by bike, avoid the traffic-heavy Route 4 instead of the quieter Route 1011 to hit Hat Yai before returning to Malaysia via the Bukit Kayu Hitam checkpoint or Padang Besar by train.

Cycling through Songkran isn’t just about covering ground – it’s about meeting faces, tasting spices, chasing sunrises and riding headfirst into celebration.

Sam Cheong

The Star

Asia News Network