Who's up for some Zuma?

Having a Japanese meal in a classic pine- and bamboo-trimmed restaurant with paper sliding doors is lovely, but there’s a lot to be said, too, for the modern zest that Zuma brings to the traditional cuisine.

Although Zuma – with branches around the world – insists it serves “authentic and not traditional Japanese cuisine”.

What it means is contemporary dishes, with the emphasis on great ingredients and simple presentation.

German celebrity chef Rainer Becker launched the chain in 2002 with the first Zuma in London. Bangkok is getting a branch next month, so we treated ourselves to a preview at the one in Hong Kong’s Central district, which until now has been the nearest to us.

The two-floor restaurant, capped with a bar area, has big tables for families (and triads) and smaller ones in the corners for couples. The bar serves full meals as well if you enjoy DJ accompaniment, but the main dining area downstairs is also fun with its open kitchen and various food stations manned by chefs.

Zuma goes for izakaya, which is usually an informal eating and drinking style, but it’s still on the sophisticated side here. The menu is extensive and there are more than 2,000 kinds of cocktail, wine and sake to choose from.

The menu is deceptive. First-timers might think the food’s going to be mild, even bland, but they’re in for a surprise thanks to the unusual, bold use of spices and seasonings.

Bite-sized chunks of beef tenderloin brim with the flavour and zing of chillies, sesame and sweet soy sauce. The baby chicken is marinated in barley miso and oven-roasted over cedar. The uni (sea urchin) comes on a plate of crispy “seaweed bread” with fresh wasabi.

The fish and seafood are sliced and served either raw as sashimi or cooked in various styles with tangy sauces. You can have a substantial sashimi platter, rice dishes and noodles or go for grilled beef, of which there’s quite a premium-quality selection.

All of the portions are generous, and most dishes are meant for two or more people.

Wash it all down with slugs of the house sake drink Zuma or the non-alcoholic, sweet-and-sour Norisan, which cleanses the palate with passion fruit.

If you’re a purist when it comes to Japanese food, you might frown at the creative twists and modern flair, but anyone who enjoys a culinary journey will definitely find Zuma interesting.

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- Keep track of things at www.ZumaRestaurant.com.
- Zuma Hong Kong is on Levels 5 and 6 at the Landmark on Queen’s Road in Central. It’s open daily from noon to 11pm.
- Zuma Bangkok is scheduled to open in November on G Level of the St Regis Bangkok on Rajdamri Road. Book well in advance if you like at (02) 252 4707.
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