Eating out with Herve
Le Beaulieu's chef talks about his passion for the Royal Project and his new book
If you have any gourmets among your friends, then one of the best present’s you could offer them this festive season is a copy of “HervHe” by French chef Herve Frerard.
Although in the bookstores since the end of August, Frerard chose to launch his book at the recent Bonjour French Fair in the company of his friend Dan Hetrakul.
After spending several years leading a team of 40 cooks in promoting French cuisine around Asia, Frerard arrived in Bangkok 12 years ago, working first at the Heritage Club then at Aldo’s. Although happy at the Sathorn restaurant, he dreamed of a place of his own. He was fortunate enough to have as a neighbour Belgian-born Dutchman Marc Bogerd, who supplied the funding and became his partner in Le Beaulieu. The Sukhumvit Soi 19 restaurant opened in 2006 and today is rated one of the best in town.
Of his success, Frerard says, “I don’t have guests… Only friends willing to pay for what they eat.”
Two years ago, he started work on his “HervHe”, along with pals Philippe Taurinya as art director and photographer Eric G Chocat as photographer. “This book is all about lifestyle, friendship, relationships with suppliers and products, much more than a cookbook with recipes,” he explains.
His friendship with Dan Hetrakul, who also features in the book, started four years ago when Dan celebrated his birthday at Le Beaulieu. The son of media tycoon, Pracha, Dan was just about to make his first journey to the family owned vineyards of Chateau Meyre in Bordeaux.
The two started chatting and found they shared a passion for forgotten worlds, rare products, the art of living, as well as food and wine.
Pracha is also a regular customer and very fond of Le Beaulieu’s innovative menus, all of which rely on the very best ingredients.
Frerard talks about the effort he puts into sourcing his ingredients in his book and is full of praise for the Royal Project, which is discovered through his customer and good friend Ritthee Richard Bunnag, right-hand man and confidant of HSH Prince Bhisatej Rajani.
After going on a grand tour of the project and its farms, Frerard was happy to help his friend organise Gourmet Tours at Doi Angkhang from late February to April with a distinctive menu using 90 per cent of the ingredients from the Royal Project.
“Normally we host the dinner at the club house. Then Herve asked me why we didn’t dine at different places since we have so many beautiful landscapes. That’s how we came up with the idea of having breakfast in the rose garden watching the sun rise in the morning with an oven to bake croissants right there. And we move around for lunch, dinner etc. Next October, Herve is planning to do a Gourmet Tour in Doi Inthanon,” says Ritthee.
The Royal Project produces not just vegetables and fruit but also raises livestock. “We are continuing our research for new products, such as the strawberry 80, which was introduced by Japanese specialists and is very successful now. At the moment, we raise trout, sturgeon, red claw clayfish, Bresse chicken and pheasant, and we are going to introduce pig and rabbit to the hilltribes.”
Frerard loves heading up north. “When I’m the Royal Project, I feel like a child set free in a candy shop. It’s a source from which I gratefully draw many wonderful ingredients,” he says.
And his book showcases many beautiful dishes made possible by the Royal Project, among them Pheasant by Royal command and long claw Avocado from Chiang Rai.
This book is an excellent resource for anyone waiting to prepare French dishes with local ingredients. But Frerard’s not pushing anyone to buy the book. He says people can contact him anytime to ask for recipes. “And I’ll be putting them online soon too.”
Moving on
<< Le Beaulieu will be closing its doors on January 5 and re-opening mid-February at its new home in the lobby of Athénée Tower, accessible from both Soi Ruamrudee and Wireless Road. The new venue will include several private dining rooms, as well as a restaurant, wine bar, bakery and delicatessen serving breakfast, lunch, teas and coffees.
<< Visit www.Le-Beaulieu.com for updates.
