For cognac, see Camus

Bangkok wine lovers got their first taste of Camus Cognac at a recent “Jazzy Cognac” night at the Eugenia Hotel.

Italthai’s food & beverage people hosted the launch, introducing the only major cognac producer that remains entirely family-run, as it’s been for five generations. 

Camus regional representative Maxence Goinere was there to trace the story of cognac to the town of Cognac in western France’s Charente region, not far from Bordeaux.

To bear the description “Cognac cru”, the vineyards must lie within the six zones of the Appellation d’origin controllee. Outside that, the wine is “just” brandy.

It’s a similar case with Champagne, a name that can only legally be applied to the sparkling wine from northeastern France. Both regions share the same chalky soil. 

Cognac begins as wine made from Ugni Blanc grape juice and is then distilled twice in copper, becoming eau de vie (water of life). Next it’s aged for at least two years in French oak barrels, though most cognacs are aged longer, letting them mature in the same way as whiskies and wines.

The Camus family has been making cognac since 1863, creating six cru zones. Borderies, a cru much favoured by the family, boasts a sophisticated and round character.

Goinere led three tastings, beginning with Camus Elegance VSOP (very superior old pale) with its authentic aromas of apricot, peach and orange, superb harmony of floral aroma such as jasmine, with a hint of vanilla.

“Actually the cognac glass we suggest using is not the one you guys usually use, the one you hold in the palm of your hand,” Goinere said. 

“We prefer the sexy tulip shape with a little open rim. Why? Because cognac has a strong alcohol level, and we don’t need to smell the alcohol, which means you don’t dip your nose into the glass like you do with wines. With the tulip shape, you’re able to get the aroma of the cognac, not only alcohol.”

Anuchit Saeng-on, who won the 2006 Wine Challenge and is now product manager at Italthai F&B, concurred, saying he prefers the Riedel Cognac glass.

Next came Camus Elegance XO (extra old), a blend of the youngest eau de vie that’s stored at least six years but on average upwards to 20 years.

“The Camus family is extremely proud of this cognac because we are the only cognac house able to produce an XO 100 per cent from the Borderies area, coming from the family vineyards,” Goinere said.

“We own 135 hectares there, the smallest, rarest, most exclusive of the six zones. The youngest eau de vie in the blend is 20 years old and the oldest 30.”

The XO Borderies has undergone “a certain evolution”, he explained, noting the “velvety smooth palate”. 

“This cognac is very fruit-forward, which is quite surprising for an XO, showing an excellent balance, with some sweetness, dry fruit, apricot, plum, but also some dryness, complemented with spices, so it is full of palette of flavours that are very fragrant.”

Finally there was Camus Extra Elegance, which comes in a beautiful bottle to match its name. It’s a blend of exceptional eau de vie for great ageing potential, pastry notes, complex with a velvety finish and exceptional length.

Goinere said the firm is this month releasing Camus Rarissimes 1940 Vintage Cognac, a limited edition of just 280 bottles – in Baccarat crystal decanters, in fact – and Camus Cuvee 2.105 Family Legacy, in a case specially made for its own striking Baccarat decanter.