All in the family

The young Kostner, who goes by the name Oak, trained as an engineer then changed his mind. Today, along with some pals, he’s running the newly opened Johann Bistro in a small sub-soi off Thonglor Soi 5 and preparing classic European classic dishes for a delighted clientele.

The bistro, which seats 50, is decorated simply with white and maroon leather chairs and has a lively open kitchen where diners can view the chefs at work through a large window. A small bar sits in a nook of the dining room with spirits, wines and standard cocktails. There is also a gourmet deli section selling some of the ingredients the chefs use in the kitchen like fresh oysters, chilled lamb rack and beef tenderloin as well as frozen foie gras and duck breast, pasta, vinegar, balsamic and truffle oil. Different wines are also on offer.

Oak grew up eating his mother’s Thai food and spent very little time in the kitchen. He enrolled in Thammasat University’s international civil engineering programme and after graduating landed a job as foreman with a Japanese-run firm. 

“I enjoyed it for the first six months because I was out in the field but after that, I was working at a computer in the office. It was no longer challenging so I decided to quit,” says Oak.

“When I told my dad I wanted to be a chef, he wasn’t impressed but he agreed to help,” the 31-year-old says with a laugh.

Oak started his apprenticeship for four months in the kitchen at Italian restaurant Zanotti in Soi Saladaeng then worked for another 10 months at Mossiman’s Private Club in London.

After proving that he was taking his new career seriously, his father supported him through formal culinary training, which saw Oak enrolled in a three-year apprenticeship at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London. He then worked at three prominent restaurants in his father’s native Italy, spending five months as chef de partie at St Hubertus restaurant of the Rosa Alpina Hotel and Spa in the Dolomites, then moving to Naples to Don Alfonso restaurant for another five months. The last stop in Italy was at the three-Michelin-star restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence where he worked as the chef de partie for one year.

“I had just been offered a contract by a restaurant in France when a friend called and asked if I were interested in running this bistro. Working overseas was fun and challenging but I was yearning for a stable place that belongs to me. I prefer a small bistro with a friendly ambience where I can take care of all the diners. I have my own working style – simple yet classic – and it is neither fusion nor molecular,” says Oak.

Asked if being the son of a celebrated chef puts him under pressure, Oak says simply “I do my best and I don’t fear failure. My dad’s culinary style is more luxurious than mine though we both try to bring the best out of natural materials.”

While he respects the recipes and techniques of European classic dishes, he doesn’t limit himself to a particular framework. 

“A French chef makes ink squid pasta with shrimp paste foam while another chef prefers fish sauce to salt. To make seafood risotto, I use both fish and chicken stocks and add lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal to overcome the fishy smell of squid ink. Diners can smell the light scent of these herbs.”

As an appetiser, we try sashimi of fresh Tasmanian salmon and Hokkaido scallop topped with crabmeat from Thailand’s South served with Thai-style seafood dressing for Bt350. For a milder taste, you can opt for scallops with cauliflower puree, chicken red wine sauce, capers and raisins for Bt450 or chilled beef carpaccio with light mustard dressing, mixed green salad and anchovy for Bt350.

Pasta lovers will enjoy traditional penne with anchovy and olive aglio for Bt280 and the mushroom risotto is also pleasing for Bt300. Do tell the waiter if you prefer your pasta al dente or softer. The tempting main dishes include pan-fried local sole with lemon burnt butter, served with mushroom duxelle and seasonal vegetables for Bt500 and pan-fried duck breast with cranberry sauce and seared pumpkin wedges for Bt600.

Do save your room for such irresistible desserts as chocolate lava with coffee ice cream (Bt220), mango shot with milk jelly and fruit salpicon (Bt180) and basil panna cotta in the glass with strawberry compote (also Bt180).

    

SIMPLY DELICIOUS

Johann Bistro is at No 88 Mall on Thonglor Soi 5. It’s open daily from 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6 to 10pm. |Call (02) 712 5070.