The accidental museum

SIRIRAJ HOSPITAL has reached beyond teaching medical science and healthcare at its Sayamindrahiraj Medical Institute to embrace history as well. The accidental discovery of centuries-old artefacts during the institute’s construction led to the creation of the Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum on the grounds. Inside are interesting interactive exhibits about the neighbourhood of Wang Lang as it was in bygone days.

Walls, the wreckage of a wooden barge and lots of porcelain unearthed on the 33-rai property bear evidence of bustling activity on what was formerly State Railway of Thailand land.

“It was donated to Siriraj Hospital to build the institute,” says Assistant Professor Tumtip Sangruchi, who serves on the museum committee. “When we discovered artefacts underground we decided to build the museum to teach people about Bangkok Noi district in the past. And it will bring in some extra money for the hospital as well.

“We offer the history of the medical sciences in the form of a 3D movie and interactive displays,” says Tumtip. “Visitors can see what happened during World War II or enjoy playing a student doctor.”

Design 103 International drew up a Bt300-million renovation scheme for the old, two-storey Krungthonburi railway station, a granary and two warehouses. The buildings retain their period Thai architectural style while allowing ample space for innovative modern technology.

“Wang Lang is an important historical district,” says project consultant Napan Sevikul. “It was a trading pier on the Chao Phraya River even during the Ayutthaya period. And the Krungthonburi railway station, built in 1914, served as the gateway to the South.”

The museum traces the stories of the site’s three landlords, from Krom Phra Rajawang Baworn Stanphimukh to the State Railway to Siriraj Hospital. Just inside the main hall is a vintage ticket kiosk in pastel yellow with wooden benches. The nostalgia factor is instantaneous.

The Sirisarnpraphas Room resembles a library, lined with bookshelves and a large screen where they screen a 10-minute preview film of what’s in store. 

Respects are then paid in the Siriraj Khattiya Phiman Hall to portraits of the current royal family as well as King Chulalongkorn, Sri Savarindira the Queen Grandmother, Queen Sri Bajarindra, Princes Siriraj Kakuddhabhand and Mahitala Dhibesra Adulyadej Vikrom the Prince Father, and Princesses Srinagarindra and Galyani Vadhana, the latter a devoted patron of Siriraj Hospital. Short documentary films outline their roles and royal duties.

The spacious Sthanphimukhmongkolkhet Hall, filled with old wooden chairs, could host lectures in the Thai language. Here you learn about Krom Phra Rajawang Baworn Stanphimukh in beautiful Thai verse while a spotlight plays on a fabulous, eight-metre mural by Panya Vijinthanasarn depicting traditional royal ceremonies and the rural life of olden days. Audio guides in English are also provided.

A large armoury contains rare antique swords donated by the Seneewongse family, descendants of Krom Phra Rajawang. Among them are a samurai sword and Shan-style blades with handles carved from the horns of barking deer, which were believed to imbue the wielder with invincibility.

Take a moment to discover where you are on an old map of Krungthonburi drawn by a Burmese spy and recreated here digitally. Touch the screen to begin exploring the old town.

Next you have a ringside seat in the theatre of the Khamanakhombanhan Room for a “4D” film that puts you on the platform at the railroad station. Time for a journey back to the beginning of the southern railway, which took some serious shelling during World War II.

Upstairs in the Sirirajburanpavatti Room you find the origins of Siriraj Hospital itself. You can sit in with the students as they learn 

 about anatomy and are show how to draw diagnoses from dummies in various poses. You can even be a doctor or nurse for a while in the operating room.

The lesson in a miniature drug store from the glory days, stocked with herbs, is how that turned into the modern pharmacy. In a healthcare corner you can discover how exactly Thai massage brings its world-famous relief.

The Nivassirinaves Building houses the 24-metre wooden barge that was unearthed, a marvel of Siamese craftsmanship. “We can’t identify what kind of barge it is or when it was built,” Napan says, “but it shows signs of repairs by the Royal Thai Navy. The boat is covered with Muntz Patent 20 metal from Germany, so we suppose it might be from the reign of Phrabat Somdet Phra Pinklao Chaoyuhua, the second king of Siam.” 

The market in Bangkok Noi comes alive in miniature nearby, complete with a tiny stage for a puppet show, a boxing school, a temple and the liquor shop where esteemed poet Sunthorn Phu was known to hang out.

The tour ends in a grand pavilion on the riverbank that has sculptures of King Rama V and Prince Siriraj Kakuddhabhand.

The museum even serves its own refreshments, at True Cafe in Building 2, and a canteen and souvenir shop should open soon.

 

 

DATE WITH THE PAST

>>The Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum at Siriraj Hospital is open daily except Tuesday from 10 to 5. 

>>Admission is Bt80, Bt25 for children and Bt200 for foreigners. You can currently get a combined ticket for the museum and the Siriraj Medical Museum for Bt80, Bt20 for kids and Bt300 for foreigners. 

>>Find out more at (02) 419 2601, www.SI.Mahidol.ac.th/museums and “Siriraj.museum” on Facebook.