The world's most expensive tongue

AS A professional coffee taster, Gennaro Pelliccia can’t eat anything heavy or spicy because his tongue is such an asset. In fact it’s insured for 10 million pounds (Bt500 million) with Lloyd’s of London. His finely honed taste buds and sensory skills will decide whether a blend is suitable to leave the roasting plant in London, bound for every Costa Coffee store in the world. 

Growing up in Naples, Italy, he acquired a love of coffee at a young age, so being tasked with tasting coffee all day is something of a dream come true. In 1999 he and the firm’s master roaster at the time, Gino Amasanti, became the first in the UK to be certified as Italian espresso tasters by the official institute in their homeland. 

Pelliccia, 38, has been working with Costa for 22 years, starting as a barista, then becoming a trainer, the head of roasting quality control and finally coffee master. He was at its recently opened outlet at Bangkok’s Siam Paragon to lead a coffee workshop.

“Our coffee is unlike any other in the world because of its unique blend, Mocha Italia,” he declared. “It has a perfect mix of Arabica beans, which have the flavour of citrus fruit, and Robusta beans, which are rich in flavour and taste of chocolate. This blend adds body to the espresso. In roasting the beans we use a traditional process called ‘slow roasting’, which is how Costa has done it since 1971.

“Slow roasting is the only way to extract the true, natural flavour from the beans, including the unique taste and aroma. Every batch of beans at Costa has been roasted at low temperature using Petroncini and Probat ovens – the best for retaining the natural flavour. Once ground and brewed at any Costa coffee store, they have the same taste and aroma, no matter where you are in the world.”

We had a few extra questions.

Why is your tongue insured for 10 million pounds?

In a 2009 blind test survey on the quality of different coffee brands, 70 per cent chose Costa. After that, Costa insured my tongue because I’m the guardian of the quality. My taste buds allow me to distinguish the different kinds.

 

When did you first realise your tongue was so special?

I’m from Naples, where good coffee originates!

 

How do you feel as the owner of the most expensive tongue in the world?

It allows me to talk about something I have a passion for, and very easy to talk about Costa. I feel very privileged and enjoy what I do, and have the opportunity to meet different people around the world and help them to learn about coffee.

Is there anything you cannot eat?

I can’t do cupping tests for too long, and it has to be within a certain period, not straight after breakfast or lunch. Afternoon tastings are much shorter because we’ve already been working all day and we get tired. For an important cupping, I have to eat a very light meal – no heavy or spicy food. I have to stop worrying and keep my head light in order to focus on the session.

If you wake up and your tongue “isn’t feeling well”, do you still go to work?

If I don’t’ feel well there’s another team member. Working as a team is a rule.

 

Does that teamwork require consensus?

I have to make sure the team works together closely and that each member’ skills are developed to the same level, as much as possible.

 

How long is your avocation’s shelf life? Is age a factor?

It depends on the ability to test, which is not different from a wine taster of a chef. I have to keep healthy so I can keep working like this for a long time.

 

 How many cups of coffee do you drink every day just for the pleasure?

I have a double espresso macchiato in the morning, another at lunchtime and, once in a while, a single espresso in the evening. But I have to make sure there’s at least one cup that I make by myself. 

 

What are your favourite coffee beans?

Colombia was the first country to embrace the fully washed coffee process, making the perfect coffee in terms of body and flavour. Kenya is distinctive for its acidity, and Jamaica Blue Mountain has outstanding taste. 

 

At Costa, do decaffeinated and normal coffees taste the same?

We buy green coffee that can be decaffeinated and try to make the taste as close as possible. But it can’t have an identical taste, because caffeine is what makes the taste different.