Secrets and serendipity

KNOWN MORE for its fragrances than for food, well known aromatic brand Karmakamet recently took a step into the world of culinary bliss with the opening of Karmakamet Diner on Sukhumvit Soi 24. 

Tucked away in a small alley behind The Emporium Shopping Complex, the diner is housed in a lofty iron-and-glass building and surrounded by lush tropical garden offering a cool feel even in the hot sun.

Semi-industrial chic is enhanced by floor to ceiling windows and the restaurant, just like the Karmakarmet cafe on Silom Road, shares its space with a small shop offering aromatic and lifestyle products.

The food isn’t flowery or perfumed though but leans heavily towards French delights that can be enjoyed with or without wine.

“We serve comfort food that is designed for both the Thai and expat palate,” says Jutamas “Som” Theantae, the Diner’s chef and co-owner. 

“Our way of cooking is very delicate and refined. We use only premium organic produce – locally sourced where possible, otherwise imported. Our dishes are neither too traditional French nor too innovative, but somewhere in between. We don’t do molecular or anything conceptual here – just nice, hearty dishes full of familiar tastes in a relaxing ambience.”

We start our meal by sharing the calf tongue bourguignon (Bt690). The Australian free-range, organic meat is braised in red wine and aromatic veggies and herbs that add flavour to the tender, succulent meat. It’s served with potato croquettes and wild mushrooms and while it’s listed as an appetiser menu, the portion is large enough to count as a main dish. 

Equally delicious are the crab pouches (Bt390), three small balls of crabmeat, bechamel sauce and Gruyere cheese in super-tin filo pastry pouches, topped with lumpfish caviar. The crabmeat is surprisingly not pungent, and the creamy component is not too heavy.

For the main course, Som recommends snowfish beurre blanc (Bt650), a light easy-to-eat chunk of snowfish that’s grilled then baked and served with French white butter sauce with a Asian hints topped with savoury salmon roe and peppery rocket leaves.

Carnivores might prefer the veal rack (Bt1,390), pan-grilled Australian veal in red wine reduction sauce. The meat is succulent and very pleasant, but the condiments are even more heavenly. They include cured artichoke heart, wild Australian rocket and spring vegetables, crispy bacon and onion as well as gratin Dauphinois, which is thick layers of finely sliced potato baked in milk. 

Som encourages us to end the meal with her “feel good” dessert, strawberry in the cloud (Bt390). Underneath a multi-colour candy floss balloon are layers of Amaretto cream, home-made walnut ice cream, shortcake and fresh strawberries. Ask for a non-alcohol version if you’re sharing this delight with kids. 

Karmakamet Diner boasts a sizeable wine list, both Old and New World, at reasonable prices. 

 

 

SENSE OF SCENT

>>Karmakamet Diner is located behind The Emporium Shopping Complex with access from both Sukhumvit Soi 24 and Soi Metheenivet (along Benjasiri Park, past the Emporium Suites). The closest BTS stop is Phrom Phong. Parking is limited. 

>>It’s open daily from 10 until 3 and again from 6 to 10.

n Reservation is recommended especially for dinner. Call (02) 262 0700-1.