A true taste of Spain
Fine Spanish cuisine can now be found in Bangkok at the recently opened Islero
AFTER YEARS of dominance by fine French, Italian. Japanese and Korean restaurants, Spain is taking its place on the gustatory plateau with Islero, an haute cuisine eatery that boasts Michelin-star menus prepared with the very freshest of Spanish ingredients.
Sleek, bright and welcoming, the spacious restaurant, which opened in February, is located in Athenee Tower just behind Plaza Athenee Hotel on bustling Wireless Road. Taking its name from the legendary fighting bull that defeated matador Manolete in 1947, Islero brings the authentic flavours of fine Spanish dining to Bangkok and gives them a thoroughly modern presentation.
Co-created by chefs Pedro Luis Rodriguez Serrano and Eduard Bosch, who previously oversaw gastronomic projects at the three Michelin-starred El Bulli in Girona, Islero focuses not on molecular elements but the preservation of true Spanish flair. Most ingredients are imported from Spain except for selected seafood and greens, which are sourced locally.
Designed for sharing, the food here is served in tapas style with plenty of small dishes and only a few main courses. Whet the appetite with a Trio of Canned Shellfish (Bt800), packed in a tin can that exudes a rustic feel. The meaty razor clams are tossed with lemon, coriander seeds and crunchy fennel while the tiger prawns are soaked in aromatic garlic oil. Sweet and succulent Spanish mussels are marinated in paprika powder and a salty foam.
Cheese lovers should opt for the Idiazabal Cheese Cream (Bt220), served with crunchy paper-thin fig bread and manchego cubes. Made from unpasteurised sheep’s milk, the cheese is pressed through an espuma to create an airy, frothy texture. You scoop it up with the bread crisp and chew on the manchego cubes that add even more aroma and taste to the addictive combination. If you prefer a meatier choice, go for a Biquini (Bt230) where Iberico ham, manchego cheese and truffle puree make for a light, well-seasoned and addictive snack.
Seafood fans should try Grilled Octopus (Bt460). The chunky and meaty octopus tentacles are lightly grilled to give them a faint smokiness then topped with slightly salty pork lard and Spanish broad beans. Rich, flavourful and hearty, the star of the dish is the tender and sweet octopus.
Among the main courses, the kitchen recommends Segovia Roasted Suckling Pig (Bt3,990) that can feed up to four people. Imported from Segovia in Spain, where roasted suckling pig is the region’s culinary claim to fame, the pig has very tender meat and very little fat. After being roasted at 65-degrees Celsius for 12 hours, the skin becomes red brown and crackly crisp while the meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender.
A healthier option is Baked Red Snapper (Bt680) where fillets of chunky fish are soaked in seafood stock and a picada of sweet chillies, almonds, chilli power and oil that gives a nutty mouthfeel and spiced undertone to the fragrant broth. The fish comes with potato, crispy fried onions and sweet-and-sour cherry tomatoes.
Do leave room for dessert. A must is the sinfully creamy and rich Torrijas (Bt240) where chunks of brioche are soaked in milk then pan-seared until the outside is golden brown and caramelised. Another interesting choice is Tocinillo de Cielo (Bt230) – a heavenly custard made of egg yolk and served with whipped cream, balsamic reduction and berries.
Islero has an extensive Spanish wine and cava list, plus coffee imported from Spain.
EATING WITH THE ANGELS
Islero is on the ground level of Athenee Tower on Wireless Road, close to Ploenchit BTS.
It’s open daily from 11 to 2 for lunch, and 5 to midnight for dinner. Call (02) 168 8100.
