The towering stone statues at Bangkok's Wat Pho and Wat Arun have an epic story to tell
If you’ve ever strolled along the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, you may have passed a quiet pier area known as “Tha Tian” without a second thought. But did you know this spot—whose name translates to “the flattened pier”—has a mythical origin that ties together two of Thailand’s most iconic temples, Wat Pho and Wat Arun?
This is not just a tale of temples, but a story of friendship, betrayal and an epic battle between two giants that left a lasting mark on the city.
Once upon a riverside…
Long ago, according to Thai folklore, two mighty giants—the guardians of Wat Pho and Wat Arun—lived in harmony across the river, at peace with each other.
These beings weren’t just towering stone statues like we see today. According to the legend, they were once living, breathing giants and close friends.
One day, the giant from Wat Pho found himself in financial trouble. Desperate for help, he flew across the Chao Phraya to borrow money from his friend at Wat Arun. The loyal and trusting giant from Wat Arun readily agreed. But when the time came to repay the debt, the Wat Pho giant refused.
Feeling betrayed and furious, the Wat Arun giant stormed across the river to confront his old friend. What followed was no ordinary quarrel—it was an all-out war.
The giants fought with such force that the ground quaked beneath them. Trees were uprooted, homes were flattened, and the area between them was reduced to rubble.
The chaos alarmed the heavens. The god Shiva (known in Thai as Phra Isuan) descended on the earth to stop the destruction. As punishment, he turned both giants into stone.
The once-lush riverside area, flattened by their brawl, became known as “Tha Tian", (the flattened pier) and the name has stuck for generations.
Where are the giants now?
Their story lives on, not only in legend but also in stone. At Wat Arun—also known as the Temple of Dawn—you can still see two colourful giants standing guard at the temple gates. These aren’t just mythical figures but also characters drawn from the Ramakien, Thailand’s national epic inspired by the Indian Ramayana.
▪︎ Tosakanth (Ravana) – the green-skinned, ten-faced demon king.
▪︎ Sahatsadecha – a red-skinned ruler of the underworld.
They now stand silently by the entrance to the ordination hall (Ubosot), watching over all who enter.
Across the river at Wat Pho—the birthplace of traditional Thai massage and home of the famous Reclining Buddha—there once stood four pairs of smaller giant statues at the gates of the scripture library.
These figures, each about 175 centimetres tall, were cast during the reign of King Rama III.
Today, only two pairs remain:
Maiyarap (ไมยราพ) and Saeng Atit (แสงอาทิตย์) at the southwest gate.
Phaya Khon (พญาขร) and Sattasura (สัทธาสูร) at the northwest gate.
The others were removed during renovations during the reign of King Rama IV. Still, the legacy of these guardians pervades the temple’s atmosphere.
These figures are more than art—they’re protectors, storytellers, and relics of cultural memory. Their tale makes Bangkok more than a modern capital—it’s a city layered with legend.
So next time you visit Bangkok, don’t just snap a photo of the beautiful spires or rush through the temple grounds. Pause. Look up at these silent giants. Remember their story.
This is Bangkok as you’ve never seen it before—where history and myth stand side by side, silently watching over the city.
